Chicks Training Tip: Correct Your Imbalances

Winter has been humming along for a number of months now, we are well past the shortest day of the year, the tease of some sunny longer days is happening, we are beginning to dream of sunny pitches, days in the desert, trips, projects, and scratching that climbing itch!  Now it’s time to talk about correcting our imbalances.

Before I blast forward take a moment to look back at the subject matter of the last 10 training installments. There is an enormous amount of great information in these “Training Tips”, every installment builds toward the next. Enjoy!

Chicks Newsletter #9 –Intermediate Rock Climbing. Training Program

Chicks Newsletter #10 – Basic Rock Climbing Training Program

Chicks Newsletter #11 – The “Process” projecting and climbing harder routes

Chicks Newsletter #12 – “Let’s get serious”, Strength training for women

Chicks Newsletter #13 – “Alpine Days” – how to train for long alpine routes for mortals

Chicks Newsletter #14 – “Alpine Legs” – leg specific training for alpine climbing

Chicks Newsletter #15 – “Ski Legs” – additional training specific for skiing

Chicks Newsletter #16 – Solid Shoulders – injury prevention

Chicks Newsletter #17 – Finger Board Training – maintain finger strength in the winter months.

Now on to the meat of the matter of correcting imbalances…

It’s time to start seriously thinking about climbing season. Depending on where you live, your job, trips you’ve planned, your outdoor season will begin in the next month or two. Hopefully you’ve implemented the tips for shoulder injury prevention, Chicks Newsletter #16 Solid Shoulders – injury prevention, through the winter and possibly added some finger board training where appropriate, Chicks Newsletter #17 Finger Board Training – maintain finger strength, in the winter months.

 

This training tip will cover fixes for climbing imbalances. Remember, climbing is fun, training for climbing is fun, however we are only as strong as our weakest link, that weak link is also our greatest potential injury site. So let’s get rid of those imbalances, you’ll be stronger and more proficient at the sport for the work.

 

If you’ve been climbing and training for a long time you will have complex muscular imbalances, you fall in the category of “Too Much Of A Good Thing”. Basically what climbing does for our mind and soul is not always 100% beneficial for our bodies long term. If you are new to climbing, let’s ingrain some good practices into your training program to keep you balanced and injury free through your climbing career.

 

I train dozens of climbers female and male, who climb anywhere from 5.9 to 5.14. The top imbalances that I see in all climbers are:

 

  • Postural – rounded shoulders, dropped sternum, kyphotic head position
  • Mobility Issues – loss of overhead mobility, tight hamstrings, tight chest
  • Muscular imbalances – weak rhomboids, mid and low traps, over developed upper traps, weak pushing muscles

 

I could list more, however these are the ones I see “most” often. Beyond these, people should seek one on one professional evaluation, especially if you are dealing with a current injury.

 

To begin to fix your imbalances:

Before you climb and ideally everyday:

 

  • Laying on your back on a foam roller, head to sacrum, keep your core tight. Begin with your arms straight fingers toward the ceiling, then let your hands fall toward the floor, overhead. Upper arm by your ears, stretch your shoulders but do not let your back arch at all. Try and get the back of your hands to the floor.

Overhead climbing stretch

  • Then: the same start potion, bend your arms at 90 degrees, and let them fall to the side. Stretch your chest again do not let your back arch. Try and get the back of the forearm to the floor.

Correcting imbalances - climbing

  • Next: Laying on your back with your legs up the wall, extend your legs up as straight as you can with out smashing your low back into the floor, try and maintain a natural lumbar curve. You’ll look like an “L” from the side.

correcting imbalances - Climber L stretch

  • In that same position, open the hips by letting the legs fall into a “V” position.

correcting imbalances - v stretch

  • Lastly make a “4’ with your legs by placing the ankle of one foot just above the knee of the opposite leg and stretch the hip of the bent leg, repeat on the other leg.

correcting imbalances - climber 4 stretch 

Hold each stretch or 30 – 60 secs, repeat a few times, if time repeat after climbing and on rest days!
Then:
2 x 10 shoulder openers
3 x 5 cuban press
3 x 5 wall squats

 

These three movements were covered in our First Chicks Training Tip. Pay particular attention to your shoulders blades. In both of these movements you want to squeeze your shoulder blades together like you are pinching a pencil (mid trap), and keep them drawn down your spine (low trap) and try to NOT shrug them up (upper trap taking over), through the entire movement. Shoulder Openers – that means the entire circle the PVC is making shoulder blades are stable, together and down. Cuban press – that means they are stable start to finish until the arms are directly overhead and back down by your side, this is difficult for most. Wall Squat – pay particular attention to stable shoulder blades and lumbar spine through the entire movement.

 

On days you climb, before you climb add these two movements in addition to the above.
  • 3 x 10 push ups – this movement was covered in Chicks Training Tip #2Pay particular attention to not shrugging your shoulders, allowing them to lift toward your ears as you push. Keep your shoulder blades stable squeezed together and down as you push. This is harder that it sounds.
  • 3 x 8 Bent Over Row or Body Row – these movements were covered in Chicks Training Tip #5

 

Chicks make this a two part movement for each repetition. Begin this movement by first squeezing your shoulder blades into a stable position then pulling (rowing) with the arms. Once the thumbs have hit the armpits at a full range of motion focus on keeping the shoulder blades stable as you lower the weight or your body depending on the movement your are doing then lastly releasing your shoulder blades. Begin the next rep by squeezing the shoulder blades together and stabilizing before pulling with the arms.
Add all of these tips to your already established climbing training regimen as you begin to prep of the season.

If you are advanced you likely have a plan or work directly with a coach. For Intermediate and Beginning Climbers see Chicks Newsletter with Training Tips:

Intermediate Rock Climbing Training Program
Basic Rock Climbing Training Program
As always, if you need information for a specific climb or trip of any nature you can contact me via email.
Carolyn Parker

Chick Beta: Quad Anchor

The Quad Anchor is a versatile method to equalize any anchor, but in this tech tip, we will focus on how to apply in a 2 point anchor scenario. You will most commonly use this when you have a 2 bolt anchor and the advantages to using a Quad Anchor are many:

  • It’s redundant
  • Self equalizes
  • Quick to tie
  • Easy to double check

What you will need to build a quad anchor:

  • 1 Cordelette (6mm Sterling Power Cord or 7mm nylon cord, at least 15 foot in length). Join the two ends with double fishermans or other knot of your choice.
  • 4 locking carabiners. I recommend 2 smaller locking carabiners like the Petzl Spirit Locking carabiner, and 2 pear shaped shaped locking carabiners like the Petzl Attache.

Sterling Cord

 

Steps:

  1. Double your cordelette over so you have 4 even strands of the cordelette. Position the knot that joins the two ends at one side of your loops. 

Quad anchor2. Tie an overhand knot on either end of the cordelette.  You should now be looking at 4 strands in the middle and two loops on either end. Keep them a little loose so you and slide the closer together or further apart depending on how much lateral movement you are going for. 

quad anchor

 

quad anchor
3. Clip your SMALL locking carabiners to the loops on either end of the cordelette. You will clip this to each of the two bolts.

quad anchor 2-point
4. Clip your LARGE locking carabiners to 3 out of the 4 strands in the middle. For best practice, make sure you opposite and oppose them. The reason why you clip only 3 out of 4 strands is because if one bolt fails, the carabiners will be trapped inside the 4 strands and not fall of the end. Another option is to clip one larger locker to 2 of the strands in the middle, and your other large locking carabiner to the other 2 strands.

quad anchor

 

quad anchor5. Voila, you now have a perfectly constructed self equalizing quad anchor rig that you can set up your top rope with.

Want more?

Check our Angela Hawse’s recent blog post on Building Climbing Anchors (video included)

 

Chick Pick: Patagonia M10 Jacket

Patagonia M10 Jacket

Chick guides Kitty Calhoun and Karen Bockel along with Chicks Alumni Diane Mielcarz love their M10 jackets

The Patagonia M10 is our choice jacket for fast and light objectives or for mixed and ice climbing in wet conditions. The M10 is a 3 layer hardshell jacket made out of Patagonia’s patented H2No fabric. Despite this jacket being a waterproof hardshell, it is by far the most breathable jacket in this category.

Its minimalist design is perfect because it has everything you need and nothing that you don’t. It has an athletic cut that fits well under a harness and stays put due to it’s generous length at the torso. As climbers and guides we appreciate this as it makes racking gear and seeing your feet a much easier task.

They’ve added zippered hand pockets to this seasons version and the sleeves have a hook and loop closure so you can tighten the cuffs around your wrists. The hood on the Patagonia M10 accommodates a helmet with ease and is equipped with a single point adjust toggle located in the back.

Lastly, another of the Patagonia M10’s special features is that the whole jacket zips into the Napolean chest pocket. Inside of this pocket there is a sewn loop that you can use to clip the jacket to the back of your harness when you’re on the move.

Patagonia M10 compact designFor the rock, alpine, ice or snow, you can’t go wrong with the M10 jacket. It’s the one to rule them all.

What we Love:

  • Waterproof & Breathable
  • Minimalist & Compact Design
  • Versatile
  • Great color!

How to Choose the Best Rock Climbing Clinic For You

CityClimbWebAt Chicks, we have climbing clinics in all disciplines from rock to alpine climbing. Choosing which one depends on what type of skills you’d like to learn, the climbing clinic style you like and the place you want to travel to do it all. If you’re new to climbing, looking to refresh your skills or want to learn more advanced skills, we have a clinic that makes it all possible.

Keep in mind that we offer 4 different levels that you can choose when you sign up for one of our trips. That way we can pair you up with others who have similar experience and your individual goals can be met in a low ratio group setting in each climbing clinic. As you advance your skills and knowledge you will move up through the four different instructional levels until you are at the point that you feel ready to fly the coop and cast out on your own.

Your guides are all certified by the AMGA and are some of the most highly trained female guides in the country. They do a great job at creating a positive environment and will teach you the “what and the why” so you walk away with knowledge and deep understanding of climbing systems.

Here is a breakdown on some of the skills you will learn on each of our programs:


rock climbing red rocks

Photo by: Irene Yee

Red Rock, NV: March 30-April 4

Great for never-evers and those who want to work on their lead climbing skills. The sandstone is super user friendly and there are climbs of all grades. Las Vegas is an affordable destination for everyone and this is a great stay-cation learning experience.

  • Single and Multi-Pitch
  • Sport and Trad
  • All Levels

Get more info


Indian Creek, UT: April 6-10

IMG_7737 Some previous experience is required for this one, as learning the art of jamming can be challenging enough as it is. You’ll learn how to place and assess trad gear placements and the art of jamming on a wide range of crack sizes. You’ll be on your way to becoming a crack climbing machine by the end of the weekend.

  • Crack Climbing
  • Levels 2-4

Get more info


Kalymnos, Greece: April 23-May 1

Previous experience is required and this climbing clinic is best suited to aspiring lead climbers and those who can top rope 5.8 and up. It’s the perfect place to test your skill against the 3D limestone features. This is a bucket list trip of a lifetime and what could be better than the beach and climbing all in one place?

  • Limestone Sport Climbing in the Mediterranean
  • Levels 2-4

Get more info


City of Rocks, ID: June 21-24

The City of Rocks is a great destination to practice your friction climbing on the wild formations in a high desert setting. There is something for everyone here, even for first timers. You will hone your technical on technical face climbs and learn about anchor building and self rescue.

  • Single Pitch and Multi-Pitch
  • Sport and Trad
  • All Levels

Get more info


Tetons, Wyoming: Alpine Rock. June 29-July 2 

Do you aspire to climb bigger mountain objectives? If you have some rock or ice climbing experience and want to learn how to take your rock/ice skills into the mountains. Learn about traveling on steep snow and ice, cramponing technique, ice axe use and self arrest on the shoulders of the Grand Teton.

  • Alpine Rock
  • Levels 2-4

Get more info


Red River Gorge, KY: September 1-4

The Red is one of the most popular destinations in the country because climbers love the pocketed sandstone. There are thin face climbs and juggy overhangs that will inspire and challenge you. It’s so user friendly which makes it the best place to transfer your indoor climbing skills to the outdoors.

Get more info


rock climbing clinicRifle, CO: August 18-20

Rifle is all about compression climbing, meaning you will squeeze and use opposition to ascend the walls lining this narrow gorge. The approaches are about 5 minutes max and the canyon receives equal parts shade and sun during the day. We will focus on sport climbing strategies like stick clipping, leading, cleaning anchors and projecting skills.

  • Steep Sport Climbing
  • Levels 2-4

Get more info

Real Life Chick – Louise Kuhn

We get to meet the amazing women we call Chicks every day and would be remiss if we didn’t get to share some of their stories with you.  Real life Chicks are CEO’s, dirtbags, moms, grandma’s, sisters, friends, athletes, and partners – just like you.  This week, meet Louise Kuhn who just finished the Iceland Ice Climbing Clinic.
Louise Kuhn Where are you from?
The long or short version? New York City via South Africa.
What programs have you done with Chicks?
Two ice climbing clinics in Ouray and one clinic in the Adirondacks.
Who were your guides?
The first ice clinic was with Dawn Glanc, second with Anna Keeling and the Dacks was with Emilie Drinkwater.
How long have you been climbing?
15 years
What types of climbing has this consisted of?
A varied and diverse mix of climbing.  There is a fair bit of trad, a diverse mix of mountain and alpine, and a good bit of ice.  I resisted the gym until recently because I thought it was boring.   But now New York has some good gyms and I have friends who go, so now I go for the sociability. I know I should try harder while there, but I prefer to go and have fun.
Why Chicks?
I liked the idea of all women’s program – I heard the guides were excellent teachers and I wanted the best instructors.
What do you like about Chicks programs?
I like the full immersive climbing experience. In addition, I also like to hang out and spend time with like-minded folks
Sum up adventure to you.
It’s a “glimmery dream” that moves you towards something exciting. Adventure is the balance between fun and fear, uncertainty and hope. It’s the challenge of the unsure.
What’s important about adventure in your life?
Stepping outside your comfort zone allows for personal growth.  It inspires and motivates to achieve things outside your wildest dreams – further than you thought was possible.
Tell me the story about your first experience with crampons.
(she knowingly laughs with that leading question because it’s such a great story!)
I thought winter was for staying indoors until I discovered crampons. I strapped them on and stepped outside on the ice. And the ice went ‘kjieee kjieee kjieee’.
(I asked for her spelling of that sound: it’s the sound of the ice not the crampons because “ice has different sounds”)
It’s a gutteral sound. I realized I could run across the ice.
What expectations did you have about the Iceland trip?
I was deliberately careful to be open to what was here… to see and discover what was here.
What surprised you?
I’ve been surprised since I stepped off the airplane.  It’s weird, wild and wonderful!
To which we said, “good alliteration” 
So Louise responded:
I expected a wonderful group of women, but I didn’t expect them to be as weird, wild and wonderful as they were.
What’s your next climbing goal?
After a moment, without hesitation or wavering conviction, Louise responds:
I’m going to stop backing off the overhangs at the gym….(Perhaps she was considering our last pitch of steep ice she contemplated not climbing but did)
Where would you like to see climbing take you?
I would like climbing to make me more level-headed, more grounded. But also to feel more fulfilled and happy.
Do you have an expectation of that or is expectation the wrong word?
Wrong word: it’s a positive process: working thru fears, insecurities and self-doubt. Examining thoughts and feelings allows growth  to be on that path is a positive process.
What else would you like to say about this Iceland trip or reflections on Chicks, climbing, etc:
The wonderful things about climbing are … independence and self-reliance, which some times you cannot get with a guided trip. With Chicks, there’s a deep sense of equality within the group.
(Just on a side note, as a guide, her last statement really struck a chord with me. That identified so much in our culture regarding climbing and hiring a guide and the deeper meaning behind personal pursuits, adventure and our seeking more meaning in our lives … the choices we make for personal fulfillment.)

Send The Youth USA Mixed Climbing Team To France

Youth mixed climbing team

Georgia Witchel – Youth Mixed Climbing Team & Chicks Alumni

Back in the day, using ice axes and crampons on rock was just considered a mandatory part of alpine climbing. Today, Mixed climbing is quickly growing into its own style and discipline of climbing. No longer do we consider mixed climbing to be “off route”. Instead, today’s climbers seek out large rock faces with small ice features.

Some train endlessly for climbing on artificial comp structures, hours perfecting figure fours and nines, understanding the power and stamina required to execute a series of moves. All these hours of training just to see what they can do for 7-9 min of competition climbing.  Then take those hours of work to enjoy climbing outside  The popularity is booming at crags around the country. The USA Youth Mixed climbing team out of Durango, Colorado is evidence that the future of the sport lies within the youth.

Meet one of the USA Mixed climbing team members, Georgia Witchel. Georgia is also a Chicks Alumni. Georgia is a highschool student in Durango Colorado. She has spent the past two years training at the Durango Rock Lounge with coach Marcus Garcia. Together, each team member and coach Garcia have been working toward the goal of competing in the 2017 UIAA Ice World Championships in France. Last year was the first time the United States sent a youth team to the world cup competition. In 2016, Georgia was the only female representing the United States at the youth world cup level. In 2017, again, she will be the only American female heading to France.

Youth mixed climbing team

Georgia practicing her figure 4’s.

This year Georgia has had a great comp season.  In December 2016, Georgia won her age division at the UIAA World Cup event in Durango. Then, during the 2017 Ouray Ice Festival, Georgia broke the record for the youngest female competitor. She placed 10th in women’s difficulty and 5th in women’s speed.

The USA Mixed Climbing Team is still very much in need of  your help to get to France. Donations will be used to offset the costs of travel, housing & entry fees. This team has big goals, and more than enough motivation to achieve them.

Please help four kids achieve their goal of competing in this prestigious competition. For information go to:

USA mixed climbing team

To make a donation please go to:

USA Mixed Climbing donation

Chicks Gear Review: Sterling’s Chain Reactor

Personal Anchor Systems (PAS) replaced Daisy Chains years ago as superior solutions for anchoring yourself while cleaning anchors at the top of sport routes, setting up TR’s, rappelling, canyoneering, partner rescue and transitioning from up to down on multi-pitch climbs. Sterling’s Chain Reactor is the superior product on the market for a number reasons.

Sterling Rope Chain Reactor
The Chain Reactor and Chain Reactor Pro are rated to 12.7 and 14KN respectively. Each loop is full strength and can hold more of an impact than your body could actually withstand. Because it’s constructed of entirely of nylon as opposed to Dyneema, it has dynamic properties that enable it to handle up to 3 factor 2 falls which although highly unlikely, increases my confidence when using it as a sole attachment point.

When used as a rappel extension, both models have attachment points that help prevent a carabiner from rotating and cross loading. These attachments are also the perfect distance from the harness, enabling you to use your gear loop as opposed to your leg loop for a third hand friction hitch back-up.

The Pro version attachment to the harness is doubled, which for heavy use is the the best choice. The classic Chain Reactor is lighter, which for multi-pitch routes is my go to. Sterling Rope products are all made in the U.S.A. and individually hand checked to maintain Sterling’s high quality. The company is founded and run by a woman who has put together an incredible team to produce and insure that all of their products meet international ISO and EN standards.

Sterling is also a long time supporter of women’s climbing and Chicks’ Official Rope Sponsor.

Chicks Tech Tip: Personal Anchoring Systems

One thing you’ll notice between recreational and professional climbers at the crag or on multi-pitch routes is the pro’s Personal Anchoring Systems (PAS) is nowhere to be seen on their harness. It’s in their pack, used solely for the descent. Recreational climbers have adopted many techniques guides use, such as direct anchor belays and rope management strategies, but the way we use PAS’s has been slow to gain foothold. Instead, many recreational climbers keep their PAS girth hitched to their tie-in’s or belay loop and tucked between their legs or off to the side.

Why don’t professionals do this? Because, the rope is the strongest part of the entire system. Why would we use anything else to attach ourselves to the anchor when we are already tied into the rope when climbing? Arguments in opposition often suggest that the rope attachment isn’t adjustable. Look at how any professional anchors themselves with the rope and you will almost exclusively see the clove hitch, which is undeniably appropriate and fantastically adjustable.

Countless tests and videos have demonstrated the risk of using a PAS as a direct attachment to the anchor. It’s common knowledge that any small fall directly on an anchor with a PAS or sling generates forces significant enough to result in sling failure. In 2007, a climber on the Grand Capucin in Chamonix, France fell less than two feet onto a Dyneema sling attaching him to the anchor. It failed and he fell to his death.

How might this relate to us? Shifting around on an anchor and taking a small slip while pulling ropes, a foothold breaks, making a move that’s a stretch to thread the rap rings or just not paying attention and falling off a small ledge. Shit happens but accidents can be prevented. By keeping the PAS or sling tether fully loaded you have eliminated the risk.

Other reasons pro’s don’t keep their PAS tethered to their harness include; 1) increased wear overtime decreases its integrity when attached to the same points on the harness all the time, 2) it gets in the way of gear and adds clutter to the harness and 3) bottom line, it’s only a tool for transitions and descents.

PAS vs. Slings? Often I use a 48” nylon sling as a tether for descents on long multi-pitch routes because it’s multi-purpose and lightweight. I keep it on my harness and use it for anchors or sling extensions. Why is this okay here and not for a personal tether? Because, while climbing the rope is always part of the system and adds dynamic properties that absorb energy. When I’m not concerned with weight or I have to do many rappels, my Sterling Chain Reactor is always in my pack. It’s more elegant than a nylon sling tether and its full strength loops provide excellent adjustability to prevent me from allowing slack into the system, reducing the risk addressed above.

No mention of Daisy Chains? They have no place here because they are only intended for aid climbing, not personal anchoring systems.

Real Life Chick – Rhonda McGovern

We get to meet the amazing women we call Chicks every day and would be remiss if we didn’t get to share some of their stories with you.  Real life Chicks are CEO’s, dirtbags, moms, grandma’s, sisters, friends, athletes, and partners – just like you.  This week, meet Rhonda McGovern who just completed Chicks with Picks – The Graduate in Cody, Wyoming.

RhondaIn one sentence, tell me about yourself.

I am from Ireland, live with my partner in New Palz, am a banker in New York City, and love the outdoors in all its forms ( climbing, hiking , biking, paddleboarding).

How long have you been climbing and what do you like most about it? 

I have been climbing rock and ice for four years and I like ice climbing more.  I like the extreme elements of winter.  I like being out when everyone else is watching TV.

What are your goals in climbing?

To become a more competent partner, lead more, become more confident in the backcountry, to set more adventurous goals for ourselves.

What are your dream trips? 

I would like to go to Chamonix to go rock and ice and alpine climbing.  We are going to start focusing on skiing more too.  I would like to go to the Bugaboos and the Cascades as well.

What obstacles do you face in meeting these goals?

Time. I don’t have the time I would like to get good at things, to climb harder.

Why did you choose Chicks? 

I wanted the confidence to go in the backcountry in the Adirondacks.  I wanted the skillset, and I wanted to focus for three days on climbing with no thoughts of work, dogs, etc.  In Cody, I was with like-minded women.  I am not intimidated by men, but it is important to see other women in the backcountry too.

What were your take-aways from the clinic? 

To get out there and go for it.  I had most of the skills, but I was able to put it all together.  I just need to get out more.  This was a reaffirming experience.  My partner, who is more experienced, will be happy to hear me say that we have this (the skills).  I also learned where my weaknesses are.  I can go to other areas that are new and discover and explore.  Sometimes I get stuck in my little world.  Also, I made connections.  That was a big part of it too.  It is inspiring to be around strong, confident women.  I definitely feel inspired after this trip.

Chicks Training Special Edition: Fingerboard Training

If you’ve been following, and more importantly, implementing the training tips from chicks newsletters you are dialed in for winter sports! Mighty and strong legs for back country touring and big powder days. And serious upper body strength and injury proof shoulders for ice climbing. It’s mid-winter and the stoke is high for all the fun to be had. But if you’re like me, somewhere in the back of your mind you’re starting to think about sun, rock, and specific fitness for the next season’s sport!

For most people it’s difficult to get outside rock climbing in the winter unless you live in a nice warm climate. Many places have climbing gyms these days which are fantastic, however, if you don’t have access to a gym or want another resource for getting some fitness to launch into rock season with a finger board may be the answer!

FingerboardFingerboards are a great way to develop and/or maintain finger strength A KEY part of rock climbing. Often we don’t have the time to get to the climbing gym, if you can find the space to hang a finger board, over a doorway, in the garage, somewhere easy and convenient, you can do super productive workouts in a short period of time in your own home.

Here are some great ideas for quick home fingerboard training workouts:


Home Workout #1
  • 4x (30sec Work/30sec Rest) Push-Up do 30 secs of push ups rest 30 secs repeat 4x no additional rest between rounds
  • 2 minute rest
Then:
  • Hangboard: 5x Pull up 60 sec rest x 5
  • 2 minute rest
Then:
  • 10 sec hangs on holds you can complete 10 secs on 5 secs rest 4x per hold type pick 5 grips (e.g. jugs, pinches, crimps open, three finger pocket)
  • 2 minute rest between hang attempts
  • During that two min rest complete:
    • 20x sit up OR 60 sec v-seat OR 60 sec plank (on foot) OR 60 sec flutter kick
Rotate through these till hangs are done.
Finish with a second round of:
4x (30sec Work/30sec Rest) Push-Up
Home Workout #2
  • 4x (30sec work/30sec rest)
  • Push-Up do 30 secs of push ups/ during rest 30 secs hold plank
  • Repeat 4x no additional rest between rounds
  • 2 minute rest
Then:
  • Hangboard: 10 – 1 Ladder of pull ups 10, rest 30sec 9, rest 30…..use assistance (a chair under your feet or a band if necessary)
  • 2 minute rest
Then:
  • 8 sec hangs on holds you can complete 8 secs on 5 secs rest 3x per hold type pick 4 grips (e.g. jugs, pinches, crimps open, three finger pocket)
  • Rest 2 minutes between hang groupings (i.e. when you can hold style)
  • In that two min rest complete:
    • 20x sit up OR 60 sec v-seat OR 60 sec flutter kick
Home Workout #3
Hangboard:
  • 10 secs hangs during which you complete a pull up while “hanging
  • 30 secs rest
  • 3 x per hold type
  • Rest 3 minute before next grouping of holds
  • Pick 5 grips (e.g. jugs, pinches, crimps open, three finger pocket)
Then:
  • 8x 20 sec work/10 sec rest of the following movements with 1 – 2 min rest between.
    • Sit Ups
    • Push Ups
    • Flutter kicks
Anytime you begin to work with a hang board, use caution and build up to smaller and smaller holds. Especially if you haven’t been rock climbing in a while. Protect those fingers. In addition to the ideas I gave you here, most hang boards will come with training tips and ideas. Enough to get you through the winter months until the rock calls your name!
If you are new to the Chicks Training Tips take a few minutes to read the previous newsletters, there’s a lot of great information in there!
If you need information for a specific climb or trip of any nature you can contact me.
Carolyn Parker