Archive for the ‘Training and Nutrition’ Category

A Diet to Conquer Climbers’ Aches

Wednesday, September 14th, 2011

All athletes should eat a balanced diet, with plenty of fruits and vegetables, a good quality multivitamin — and it goes without saying that you shouldn’t smoke. But can your diet actually prevent some injuries, or help you to heal faster from the injuries that you have already sustained? The answer is yes — not only can your diet provide you with the nutrients you need to repair and regrow your tissues, but it can also reduce your overall levels of inflammation, and even reduce pain and swelling from an injury, strain, or ordinary muscle aching and soreness. To reduce inflammation, swelling, and pain, consider including the following foods in your diet (always being careful to avoid any foods that you may personally have an allergy or sensitivity to):

- Green leafy vegetables. Green leafy vegetables are good dietary sources of vitamins and minerals that you need to keep your bones and muscle tissue in good repair: calcium, magnesium, potassium, manganese, vitamin C, and vitamin K (which helps prevent bruising). Just for starters, try broccoli, kale, spinach, cabbage, and Brussels sprouts. But, all things in moderation — a diet that is too rich in cruciferous vegetables can push someone who is borderline hypothyroid (as many women are) over the edge into hypothyroidism, so don’t overdo them. Instead, make sure to balance cruciferous vegetables with other nutritious foods, such as fresh fruit, whole grains, healthy fats, and lean protein sources. Don’t always eat a spinach salad — have romaine sometimes, or mix in some leafy herbs, such as parsley or cilantro.

- Foods that are rich in zinc, such as chicken, eggs, soybeans, and wheat germ. Zinc helps to keep blood vessel walls strong and helps blood to clot.

- Foods that are rich in vitamin C. If you don’t get enough vitamin C in your diet, not only are you prone to the bleeding gums of scurvy, but you will also find that you bruise more easily, because a vitamin C deficiency can make your blood vessels more delicate and thin, so tiny capillaries break and bleed more easily — leaving you with a bruise. Luckily, it’s easy to get enough vitamin C — just eat plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables. You don’t have to drink orange juice if you don’t like it — try berries or leafy greens, or better yet, a salad containing both.

- Alfalfa sprouts. Alfalfa is rich in vitamin K, which helps to prevent bruising.

- Pineapple. Pineapple contains the enzyme bromelain, which is famous for improving digestion, but is also an anti-inflammatory. It can reduce the inflammation of tendonitis, muscle aches, and sprains and strains. If you don’t like pineapple, or if you need bromelain in a more compact form to take with you on a climb, you can take bromelain as a supplement, in capsule form. If you are recovering at home and trying to heal a current injury using pineapple as an anti-inflammatory, be prepared to eat a lot of it — about 1/2 a pineapple per day. If you enjoy pineapple, though, that shouldn’t be a problem! And here’s a bonus: in Germany, bromelain is also prescribed for sinusitis, so if you tend to suffer from sinus problems, you may want to take an especially good look at adding pineapple to your diet. (For more about bromelain, see the University of Maryland Medical Center’s fact sheet, “Bromelain,” http://www.umm.edu/altmed/articles/bromelain-000289.htm.)

- Ginger. Ginger is the original compact all purpose herb — the friend of travelers everywhere, because not only is it small and easy to pack, but it reduces motion sickness. However, like pineapple, ginger can also act as an anti-inflammatory. Ginger has been studied and used medicinally for centuries, but only since the 1970s has it been made the subject of clinical trials for its efficacy in treating inflammation. Now scientists have moved on from validating ginger’s anti-inflammatory action to studying the reasons for it. It turns out that some of the chemical components of ginger are similar to those of aspirin, and in studies, ginger, like aspirin, has been shown to reduce the pain of arthritic inflammation. (See Grzanna, et al., “Ginger–an herbal medicinal product with broad anti-inflammatory actions,” Journal of medicinal food, Summer 2005, http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16117603.)

- Omega-3 fatty acids. Yes, that means fish oil — or possibly, flax, nuts, or algae. Many vegetables also contain small amounts of omega-3s. You don’t have to worry about including omega-3s in your diet every day (unless you are trying to remedy a past deficiency), but including them at least a couple of times per week can reduce inflammation in your body. The jury is still out on just how helpful omega-3s are for inflammation, but they are being studied as a therapy for the pain and inflammation of arthritis. Like most healthy foods, this one also has other bonuses: it improves memory, focus, and reduces depression and anxiety — so if you are anxious about a tough climb that is approaching, you may find it helpful to include an omega-3 supplement (such as fish oil capsules) every day for a while — omega-3s have been found in clinical trials to reduce anxiety. (See National Center for Complementary and Alternative Medicine, “Omega-3 fatty acids may reduce inflammation and anxiety in healthy young adults,” 2011, http://nccam.nih.gov/research/results/spotlight/072811.htm.)

Brett Warren is a fitness and weightlifting enthusiast from Boston, Massachusetts. He is passionate about nutraceutical science and loves his job developing workout supplements for Force Factor. Brett’s extensive background in biochemical engineering means he’s one scientist you don’t want to mess with. When Brett is not crushing it in the gym or working at Force Factor, you can find him spending time outdoors with his family.

Oats, Oats, Oats

Wednesday, August 31st, 2011

(I really like this picture! Food + Climbing? I'm in!)

I was just tweeting (if you don’t follow me, you should) about how I have been missing oatmeal all summer long.  When it is very hot outside, the last thing you want in the morning is a pipping hot bowl of oats.  Well, maybe some of you out there do, but I do not.  Maybe it’s a California thing :)

Regardless, I have numerous oatmeal recipes that I live on all winter and have been having some serious cravings lately.  Once again, I feel like a prego lady with these intense cravings.  No (mom), I’m not prego… just an FYI.

Honestly, what can’t you do with oats?  They can be made into oatmeal, cookies, granola bars, crisp toppings, pie crusts/toppings, used in savory fish dishes, etc.  I fully believe that the oat is a very overlooked ingredient.  With that said, oats are kind of in the grey area of gluten-free eating.  At least, from what I have been reading.  An oat is naturally gluten free but how it is processed can sometimes create gluten.  Or the factory it is manufactured in is shared with a wheat factory…. hence, cross contamination.

Either way, if anyone out there has any more information clarifying this issue, please help a girl out.

Thankfully, there is such a thing as gluten free oats!  They only cost like 4x the price but… whatever!  At least now I can eat my oats.

When doing some shopping today, I decided to pick some up.  Along with some coconut milk, organic yogurt, apples and some quinoa.  Just in case you were wondering what else was in my basket.

On one of my favorite blogs (besides mine), The Healthy Everythingatarian, just posted how to make,what looks like, an amazing cold oatmeal.  Click to see what she did!  I’m planning on making that tonight before bed and devouring it tomorrow morning.

For now…. angry baking it is.

Let me explain–

If you follow this blog, you have heard me refer to baking in many different descriptive terms.  One of them would have to be angry baking!  I honestly think that when I bake while angry, I make a better product.  No idea why this is but… it is.

Once upon a time, I was dating my ex-boyfriend (who will remain nameless).  We lived together for some time but before that, we basically shared the same house for years.  Whenever we would get into a fight (sadly, that was often), I would cook.  His roommates loved it!  When I am upset I like to cook…. bake… yell… you know, to each his own.

I still take a great amount of joy in cooking while angry/upset/what-have-you.

Needless to say, armed with my new gluten free oats and a very, dark side of the moon attitude, I headed into the kitchen.  Where I blared some music and baked granola bars.

Peach & Almond Oat Bars:
Gluten free (of course)

Crust:
-1 cup brown rice flour
-3/4 cup quinoa flour
-pinch of salt
-1/2 tsp. xanthan gum
-3/4 tsp. baking soda
-1 cup brown sugar
-1 tbs. cinnamon
-1 3/4 cup gluten free oats
-1 cup chopped almonds
-1 cup unsweetened coconut
-1 cup apple sauce
-1 tsp. vanilla extract
-1 egg

Filling:
-1 cup peach jam
-1/8 cup chopped candied ginger 

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.  In a stand mixer…. throw everything in and mix it until it is completely combined.  In another bowl, mix together the filling ingredients.  Set that to the side.

In a 9×13 inch baking pan (lined with parchment paper), take half of the oat crust mixture and spread it evenly on the bottom of the baking pan.  Once it is evenly spread and completely covers the bottom, pour over the filling mixture.  Then, top that with the remaining oat crust mixture.  It is OK if the oat topping doesn’t completely cover the filling layer.  It will give it good texture and will still be very tasty.  Use your hands to spread the top layer as evenly as you can.  It isn’t rocket science… your bars will turn out great regardless.  I promise…. (I think).  

Put them in the over at 350 degrees for 30-35 minutes.  Let them cool completely, cut and eat!  They are a great snack for whenever.  
Moral of the story, and recipe, bake angry and your things will turn out amazing.  Just kidding… maybe that will only work for me :)

Now I’m all smiles… and maybe a burn tongue from eating my oat bars.  Whatev….

“Don’t worry about a thing…. every little thing will be all right.”

Thanks Bob, I needed that.

Some Hershey’s Drops never hurt either!  They are sure to put a smile on your face :)

Lauren Azevedo-Henderson is a climber and foodie with a degree in Art History. Lauren has been cooking all her life and has been seriously climbing for just over 2 years. While living in her ex-boyfriend’s van (only for long weekends or a week at a time) she started cooking what you would call “gourmet” food on a camp stone in the van. She now spends most of her time in Red Rock, NV and started writing her food/climbing blog “The Climbing Chef” just last year.

Carrots, Muffins and Alligators…. Oh my!!

Friday, August 5th, 2011

Have you ever given up one item of food and headed head first into another food?  If not, you are lucky because that is exactly what is happening to me now.  Since I have given up gluten, or more correctly, my body has told me that it will no longer accept gluten loaded food, I have given up gluten.  Maybe it’s because I am not eating bread, or other types of carbohydrates that turn into sugar once broken down, but I have been craving sugar like a mad woman.

I don’t normally have a sweet tooth, I mean, I really like frozen yogurt and the occasional cupcake but I am not one to scarf down sweets like a crack head.  Or pregnant woman…. choose your own analogy.

Chocolate. Cookies. Cake (gluten free of course).  Candy. Honey.

Basically anything that has some type of sugar in it and does not have gluten, I have been eating.  I guess if I have to give up bread, I will replace it with sugar.  Every time someone finds out that I am gluten free, they say,

“Wow! That sucks but I bet you will lose a bunch of weight.”

I am choosing to ignore that they may be implying I need to lose weight, and contradict them by stating that,

“Yes, that would be a possibility if I wasn’t downing sugar laced food like a love sick crack head!”

(apparently sugar is not my only down fall…. really bad music is too since I just quoted Ke$ha)

I digress….

Last week was a really great week chock full of work.  That would make a lot of people really depressed but I really love my job so that makes me really happy.  Not sure if it’s all the work or the fact that I am still dealing with a lot of health issues (non-serious thankfully) and climbing has kind of been on the back burner.  This makes me sad for many reasons but I’m dealing.

Although I lobbed off a piece of my left thumb at work this last week, I am forcing myself to climb tomorrow even if it is only at the gym.

Out my window, I can hear the wind starting to pick up and the threat of thunderstorms are on the horizon.  There is a chance of rain tomorrow but I will be heading to the gym if I can not feel up some real rocks.  To be completely honest, climbing hasn’t sounded like fun lately.  I’m kind of in a slump….

Fingures crossed, tomorrow will perk me up!

Tonight, I got off of my lazy ass and made some more muffins.  Grab and go food for early morning and snack time have been the hardest to deal with, while eating gluten free.  Last Saturday, while on our yard sale hunt, I had some difficulties finding gluten free food at a coffee shop.  They literally had nothing I could eat except a banana and a smoothie.  I got both and drooled over my sister and mom’s muffins but… *sigh*…..

The muffins I made last week were very good and I liked having them around so… when they were all gone, I decided to make more tonight.  Since it has been roughly 100 degrees, turning on the oven is unwanted.

Crank up the AC and make these muffins…. you wont regret it!

*Midnight* in California Muffins:
-1/2 cup sugar
-1 tbs. orange zest
-1 cup brown rice flour
-1 cup white rice flour
-1/2 cup tapioca flour
-1 tbs. baking powder
-1 tsp. xanthan gum
-2 eggs
-3/4 cup milk
-1/4 cup fresh squeezed orange juice
-1/2 cup melted butter
-1 pinch salt
-2 tbs. minced candied ginger
-1 1/4 cup chopped dried cherries 
-1/8 cup course (raw) sugar for top of muffins

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees.  In a stand mixer, cream the eggs and sugar together until incorporated.  Slowly add in the zest, melted butter, salt, baking powder, flours and xanthan gum.  Once mixed thoroughly, add in the milk and orange juice.  By hand, mix in the ginger and dried cherries.  Line  your muffin tins with silicon muffin liners and fill them 3/4 of the way up.  Top with raw sugar (for crunch) and bake for 20 minutes or until golden brown.  This recipe should make roughly 16 muffins.

Happily, I had the weekend off of work and went to San Francisco with my mom and sister (and sister’s boyfriend).  Although the traffic was hard, Gay Pride and Giants game all in one day, it was all worth it.  We went to The De Young to see the Balenciaga and Picasso exhibit and neither of them disappointed.  Right outside of the museum and in between the Academy of Science, there is a small park that has live music and food trucks!  There were four food trucks (with nothing I could eat) and one of them had lobster rolls that looked to die for.  I almost considered eating one and dealing with the consequences later.  But, I didn’t…

While we (mom, sister and I) were at the De Young, my sister’s boyfriend spent his time at the Academy of Science.  There is an albino alligator in there that I have been dying to see…. Finally, Sunday was the day.  I ran inside and visited him before running downstairs to see some of the fish.  I need to go back and spend a whole day at the Academy but for now… that will suffice.

 

These muffins were the perfect end to a very long weekend and almost even longer Monday.

Baking Hell

Thursday, July 21st, 2011

About a week ago, my mom walked up to me with an old Bon Appetite magazine.  She had it turned to a specific page and more importantly, to a very specific recipe.  Very quickly, she suggested that I make the recipe.  After looking at it for quite some time, I decided that I could totally make it.  Even better, I could make it gluten free.

To be honest, I have no idea what I was thinking about.  I had no idea how hard this recipe would be…  I thought, “Yea! No problem.  That seems easy enough.”

Let’s break it down….

The recipe is an easy recipe, it just takes a butt load of time.  The amount of steps can seem overwhelming but when you look at what the steps are, it all seems easy.  Like I said, it is easy…. but it takes time.

First, there is the dough.  It has to be made in a very specific manner and then it has to be divided into three different baking pans.  Each pan is dyed a different color and baked at different times.  They must all cool and then you have to flip them out of their pans and stack them on top of each other.  This is no easy task!  I’m not sure if it is because I use rice flour instead of all purpose, but these cakes are extremely delicate.  The best part is that if you do break one of them (or all of them, like me) while attempting to sandwich them on top of each other, it doesn’t really matter.  It eventually (after numerous steps) gets a good coat of chocolate on the top and bottom.  This will cover up all of the mistakes and make it look pretty damn close to perfect.

Ok, I’ll give you the recipe but just a warning…. it takes an F-ing long time to make.  Also, it’s not my recipe, I got it out of a Bon Appetite magazine (May 2011) but I did make it gluten free.

GF Watermelon cookies:
-2 cups butter
-6 eggs
-1 1/2 cup sugar, divided
-12 oz almond paste (not marzipan)
-2 1/2 cups rice flour
-1/4 cup tapioca flour
-1 tsp. xanthian gum
-1 tsp. salt
-1 tsp. red food color
-1 tsp. green food color
-3/4 cup orange marmalade 
-4 oz bittersweet chocolate, melted
-3 9×13 baking pans

1)Bake
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.  Line all three of your baking pans with foil and grease them.  Make sure that you have enough foil so that it hangs over the side.  This will come in handy later.  Separate the egg whites and egg yolks into two separate bowls.  With a hand mixer, whip the egg whites with 1/3 cup sugar until they form soft peeks.  Set it aside to chill.  In a stand mixer, mix the almond paste and the rest of the sugar together until incorporated.  Slowly add in the butter, tablespoon by tablespoon.  This will take roughly 5 minutes and should look light and fluffy once it is done.  Slowly add in the flours, salt and xanthan gum.  Gently fold in the egg whites.  Once they are incorporated, divide the batter among three bowl.  Leave one bowl batter white and add the food color into the other two bowls.  Mix gently until you achieve the correct colors.  Spread each batter into it’s own individual baking pan and place them in the oven, one at a time.  They will take roughly 15 minutes to cook.  Make sure you cook them just until they are set, no more.  Let them cool completely in their pans.  

2) Layer
Heat the marmalade until it is soft and thinned out.  This will only take a coupe of minutes.  With a brush, brush half of the marmalade onto the red cake.  Using the hanging over foil (I told you it was important), lift the white cake out of it’s pan and place it on top of the red cake.  Gently brush the remaining marmalade onto the white cake.  Just like the other one, take the green cake out and layer it on top of the white cake.  It should now look like a three layered cake all in one pan.  Cover the top with wax paper. 

3) Weight
Top the cake with a cookie sheet and weight it with a couple cans.  This will allow the cake to compress and become more solid.  Refrigerate it for at least 4 hours but up to 1 day.  

4)Unmold
Remove the cans from the cake and take the cookie sheet off of the cake.  

5)Glaze
Melt the chocolate in a double boiler.  Ladle half of it onto the top of the cake (you should see the green layer) and spread it around evenly.  Place it in the freezer for 10 minutes.  After 10 minutes, take it out of the freezer and place a cookie sheet lined with wax paper upside down on top of the cake.  Very carefully, flip it up side down or turn it out.  Now you should be looking at the red layer.  Take the other half of the chocolate and ladle it on top, spread evenly.  Place it back in the freezer for 10 minutes.  

6)Slice
FINALLY!!!  Now that the cake is perfect, carefully cut it into 96 1/2″ wide cookies.  I’m not kidding… yea… 96.  Or at least, try for that many.  They are really rich and you don’t need more than a bite at a time.  

They turn out amazing and look brilliant but in the end, they are incredibly labor intensive.  Who ever came up with this recipe, is truly a masochist.  Many times I found myself saying that I was in “baking hell”.  And to tell you the truth… I kind of was.  When all of the cakes, you worked so hard on, are falling apart and nothing seems to be working correctly, this recipe does feel like baker’s hell.
I should have been in gangsters paradise instead of bakers hell…. but life doesn’t always turn out the way you want it to.
They are not only beautiful but they are tasty as all hell.

While I was waiting for the cake to be “weighted”, I baked muffins.  Yes, I had two baking projects going on at once.  But, what else was I supposed to do while my bake was being weighted down for 4 hours?

The muffins are amazing…. and way easier than the watermelon cookies!
Good Sunday GF Blueberry Muffins:
-1 1/2 cups rice flour
-1/4 cup tapioca flour
-1 tsp. xanthan gum
-2 tsp. baking powder (make sure it’s gluten free)
-1/2 tsp. salt
-1 cup sugar
-4 eggs
-2 tbs. orange zest
-2 tbs. lemon zest
-3/4 cup olive oil
-1/2 cup Greek yogurt
-1 tsp. almond extract
-1 cup fresh blueberries 
-2/3 cup sliced almonds
-1/4 cup raw sugar for tops of muffins

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.  In a stand mixer, mix the eggs and sugar together until completely combined, roughly 4 minutes.  Slowly add in both flours, salt, baking powder, zests, Greek yogurt, xanthan gum, olive oil and almond extract.  Turn the mixer off and hand mix in the blueberries and almonds.  Line your muffin tins with silicon muffin wrapper (I love these things) and fill them 3/4 of the way.  Sprinkle the tops with raw sugar and bake for 25 minutes or until they are golden brown and a tooth pick comes out clean.  Let them cool and eat!  They are really good :)  

This recipe originally came from a Food Network chef but I changed somethings and made them gluten free.  You could make them with regular flour but I don’t see why you would… they are really tasty!  I may (or may not) have had three of them for breakfast this morning…. they were small ones!  What?  I needed something to eat after having morning champagne.


Just for the record, when making a cake as difficult at the watermelon “cookie” cake, champagne is needed.  I should have just put a straw in an open bottle but I restrained myself and didn’t.  If you make that recipe, you may want to add that to your grocery list.

All in all, it was a good sunday filled with great baking.  Hopefully everyone had a great weekend and Happy Father’s Day.

Lauren Azevedo-Henderson is a climber and foodie with a degree in Art History. Lauren has been cooking all her life and has been seriously climbing for just over 2 years. While living in her ex-boyfriend’s van (only for long weekends or a week at a time) she started cooking what you would call “gourmet” food on a camp stone in the van. She now spends most of her time in Red Rock, NV and started writing her food/climbing blog “The Climbing Chef” just last year.

GF Mexican Croque Madame + more

Wednesday, July 13th, 2011

It’s no hidden secret that I love food.  If you asked me what I was thinking about, most of the time, my answer would be about food.  This morning, I woke up with a very stiff back, head ache and incredible painful stomach.  Have you ever swallowed a burning hot coal?  Well, that is exactly what I feel like, having to eat all of this moth$@ f*^king gluten. 

With all of that aside…. my favorite sandwich is called a Croque Madame.  Ever heard of it?!  If not, you must go out and eat it right away.  Basically, it’s a ham and cheese sandwich with a fried egg on top of it.  It’s like a fancy grilled cheese sandwich with an egg.  SO GOOD!!!

 Gluten Free Mexican Croque Madam:
-2 corn tortillas 
-1/3 cup shredded cheese
-3 slices of ham
-1 tbs. olive oil
-1 egg
-hot sauce of your choice

In a skillet, heat up the olive oil until it is just about smoking.  Add in one tortilla topped with the cheese and ham.  Top it all off with the other tortilla and let everything melt to tasty goodness.  Make sure to let both sides of the tortillas brown nicely.  Once that is done, remove the tortillas from the pan and set it on the side.  Basically, it’s a fancy quesadilla at this point.  In the same pan, fry an egg.  Or two if you are really hungry.  Once it is cooked to your liking, remove it from the heat and place it on top of the “quesadilla”.  Put as much or as little hot sauce on as so desired.  
While sitting in bed Sunday morning, watching the program Sunday Morning, I had a great once over at the Chronicle’s Food and Wine section.  In my last post, I talked about the amazing story about the ex-Tartine baker who started cooking gluten free pastries.  From that story, I made her gluten free chocolate chip cookies.  She claimed that they tasted just as good as their gluten enhanced counter part but I was a bit skeptical to say the least.  How could you make great tasting chocolate chip cookies without using flour?  I mean, I know rice flour tastes pretty good but…how can that work in cookies?  Well, this woman is a baking genius!  Her recipe was dead on and you really can’t tell that they don’t have flour in them.

Julieann’s Gluten-Free Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies: 
(taken from SF Chronicle on 05/06/2011)

-1 1/2 cups brown rice flour
-2 tbs. tapioca flour
-3/4 cup quinoa flour
-1 tsp. xanthan gum
-1 tsp. baking soda
-8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted, softened butter
-1 3/4 cup light brown sugar
-1 tps. kosher salt
-1 large egg, room temp. 
-1 large egg yolk
-2 tbs. sour cream
-2 tbs. vanilla extract
-2 cups chocolate chips
-1 cup chopped lightly toasted nuts (optional)

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.  In a stand mixer, cream together the butter, sugar and vanilla extract.  In a separate bowl, sift all of the dry ingredients together.  Once the butter and sugar are creamed together, slowly add in the dry ingredients.  Finally, add in the eggs and sour cream.  Turn the stand mixer off and hand mix in the chocolate chips and nuts if you are adding them in.  

Place the dough on greased baking sheets and place in the preheated oven.  Bake for approximately 8 minutes, rotate the sheet and continue cooking for another 3-5 minutes.  Take them out of the oven, let them cool on cooling racks and enjoy.     

Seriously, if you get the chance, make sure to read the entire article.  It’s the featured story in the food and wine section of the Sunday (05/05/2011) San Francisco Chronicle.

I should really explain that I can not make a round cookie to save my life.  It doesn’t matter how much I try to space them out or make smaller cookies, they always turn out square.  For some reason, this alone irritates the crap out of me.  Regardless, these cookies are really good!  Celebrating the fact that I no longer have to eat gluten… Dear (someone), my stomach thanks you.

Lauren Azevedo-Henderson is a climber and foodie with a degree in Art History. Lauren has been cooking all her life and has been seriously climbing for just over 2 years. While living in her ex-boyfriend’s van (only for long weekends or a week at a time) she started cooking what you would call “gourmet” food on a camp stone in the van. She now spends most of her time in Red Rock, NV and started writing her food/climbing blog “The Climbing Chef” just last year.

Beautiful Contradictions (& Pecan Banana Bread!)

Friday, June 24th, 2011
(Climbing = raw to the bone (over) tenacity + a bit of crazy)

I love being “that” girl…

I’m the girl who has an Om (Aum) sticker on her car but drives around blasting TOOL.  I’m the girl who is just fine hanging with the boys.  The girl who always wants to do better than the boys.  Mostly, I want to climb harder than the boys.  At any given time, you will find a yoga mat and climbing gear in my car.  But you will also find receipts for multiple shopping trips (not all to REI).  I’m the climbing girl who has a brush in her pack.  The girl who grew up with slightly hippie parents, who love great Blues music and who allowed me to not wear pants for the first part of my life.  I am the girl who bitches about organized religions (only to my mother, don’t worry, I won’t judge you) but has a tattoo of a cross on her back.  On the subject of tattoos… I’m the girl who voices her opinions about healthy eating but also has a tattoo of a slice of cake and cupcake.  The girl who complains about having parents who want her to check in on climbing trips, but feel left out if they don’t try to get in touch with me.  I am the girl who drinks Kombucha but really loves Diet Coke.  I’m the girl who tries to be perfect and strong, but most of the time I’m falling apart in my head.  The girl who twitches in her sleep.  I am the girl who tries to be dark and cynical but honestly, I’m a hopeless romantic and eternal optimist.

Not sure if it was the 60 minutes of yoga (today was an especially great class), the 30 minute run or the fact that although my car was in the shop, I won’t have to sell a kidney to pay for it’s “doctors” bill.  It may have been the fact that I had a very productive and wonderful day.

And to show just how happy and (hopefully) healthy I am… I am going to make banana bread!  I love bread and could never ever give it up.  Zucchini bread is my favorite but banana bread comes in at a close second.  When I turned 18 or so, my mother made me the most amazing gift.  She scrapbooked a cookbook for me!  It is made up of recipes from my grandmother, mother and our favorite Chefs.  Not only does it have the recipes, but it has old family photos and great magazine cutouts.  It is my most cherished thing in the whole world.  If my house was on fire, I would grab this book and my grandmother’s jewelry box.

Pecan Banana Bread:
-2 cups flour
-3/4 cup sugar
-1 stick butter
-2 eggs at room temperature
-1 tsp baking soda
-1 tbs. ground Cinnamon
-3 bananas (mashed)
-1 cup chopped Pecans
-2 tsp. vanilla extract
-1 pinch of salt

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  In a stand mixer, mix the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy.  Then add the eggs in one by one.  Once those are mixed together, add the vanilla extract.  In a separate bowl sift together the flour, salt, baking soda and cinnamon.  Slowly add the dry into the wet ingredients.  With the stand mixer off, mix in the mashed bananas and pecans by hand.  Spray and flour a loaf pan before adding the banana bread mixture.  Smooth out the top and place in the over for 50-60min or until the top is golden brown and a toothpick comes out clean.  Cool and devour!!

[Editor's Note: Check out Lauren's new feature article in Rock and Ice magazine which includes a recipe for Teriyaki Chicken, a Super Star Breakfast Burrito, as well as a "not so good" for you breakfast involving Nutella ;)   http://rockandice.com/news/1477-for-all-you-climber-foodies]

Lauren Azevedo-Henderson is a climber and foodie with a degree in Art History. Lauren has been cooking all her life and has been seriously climbing for just over 2 years. While living in her ex-boyfriend’s van (only for long weekends or a week at a time) she started cooking what you would call “gourmet” food on a camp stone in the van. She now spends most of her time in Red Rock, NV and started writing her food/climbing blog “The Climbing Chef” just last year.

The Climbing Chef’s foodie Thanksgiving in J-Tree

Friday, June 10th, 2011

This morning we’ve got an archive blog post from the Climbing Chef, Lauren, writes about her foodie experience while climbing in J-Tree over Thanksgiving weekend (unfortunately, while sick), but there are lots of good snack and food suggestions to keep you fueled while climbing!

I just crawled out of my very warm bed and am sitting on my couch watching cooking channel with my cat and cup of warm tea. Warmth is what I am looking for after the trip to Joshua Tree. When your low is 24 degrees, you have a head cold and even your 0 degree sleeping bag isn’t cutting it…. you know you spent your Thanksgiving break with me in Joshua Tree.

Don’t get me wrong, I had a great time! Although I did not climb as much as hoped, I was happy just being where I was and trying to get better. Having a sinus infection/head cold at high elevation is not that fun… trust me, just say no. I did kick ass on this amazing 10a/b climb on Grain Central Station, and could not have had a better group of people to climb with.

Now, lets talk about the food….

Thursday night:
Group potluck Thanksgiving style!
-Fire roasted Turkey packets with butter and whiskey (Thank you Krista)
-Roasted pumpkin and butternut squash soup with crushed red peppers (all me)
-Mashed potatoes
-Drunken cranberry sauce (Cranberry sauce cooked in whiskey… thank you Krista)
-Sweet potatoes
-Stuffing with so much bacon it should be illegal
-Cheesecake, apple pie, pumpkin pie, etc.

The sight of five tables covered in camp stoves working on high, and all your climbing friends working around them is one that warms your heart. It was insane to see all of the food being prepared in the middle of the desert. When everyone you climb with are foodies, you know that you are going to eat good food. Sadly, because of my cold, I had no appetite and just ate some soup and turkey but everyone else devoured everything in site.

I was very excited to eat my wraps for lunch, containing:
-Turkey
-Brie cheese
-Cranberry
-Lettuce
But my container had a better plan…it totally failed and allowed melted ice into the container and drown my lunch. It was a good thing I wasn’t hungry because my sandwiches for the entire weekend were ruined. Cliff bars, apples, chocolate (with whole hazelnuts) and cheese were a great substitute though.

Friday Dinner:
-Miso soup with green onions, mushrooms and tofu (saved my life and was perfect for my cold)
-Trader Joe’s Dutchess Grey Tea (If you haven’t had it, try it)

Early bed time on Friday night because I could not seem to get warm. Maybe it was because it was way below freezing but I can’t say for sure. I’m not kidding when I say this, when I went to bed I was wearing:
-2 pairs of wool socks with foot warmers placed in between the socks
-3 pairs of long underwear
-3 base layer shirts
-1 800 fill down puffy
-1 wool lined sweatshirt wrapped around my butt and hips
-1 beanie
Then I folded my cold body into my 0 degree sleeping bag and laid down on my sleeping pad. I was still cold and I’m not a baby when it comes to cold weather.

Saturday Lunch:
-Arugula and Parmesan ravioli with an arrabiata sauce (spicy tomato sauce)

High quality organic ravioli are boiled on my camp stove for roughly four minutes and then fished out and added to the arrabiata sauce. Do not over sauce the ravioli!!! They are great alone but the sauce adds a little more flavor.

This was the perfect lunch to eat before getting packed up and heading back home, 9 hours away. Comfort food like yummy pasta is a perfect way to end a great trip in the desert.

Joshua Tree, you were amazing and I can not wait to come back to you!

Lauren Azevedo-Henderson is a climber and foodie with a degree in Art History. Lauren has been cooking all her life and has been seriously climbing for just over 2 years. While living in her ex-boyfriend’s van (only for long weekends or a week at a time) she started cooking what you would call “gourmet” food on a camp stone in the van. She now spends most of her time in Red Rock, NV and started writing her food/climbing blog “The Climbing Chef” just last year.

Making out on Munginella and raw food

Wednesday, May 25th, 2011

Today we have our second article from the Climbing Chef, Lauren, who ate healthier meals than her normal “climbing fuel” on a recent trip to Yosemite!

Every time I go to climb in the Valley I return feeling like I just got the crap kicked out of me… and yet, I still like it.  Yosemite is one of the hardest graded places to climb but that’s what happens when you have the pioneers of climbing setting routes.  Shit is going to be hard!  None the less, I do love the Valley and am hoping that someday, I won’t feel like I am not good enough to climb there.  Hard on myself, much?

I drove to San Francisco on Friday morning (5:00 a.m.) to spend the day with some of my beloved friends before heading to the Valley with my other bunch of beloved friends (climbing friends, that is).  We jumped in the car at 6:00 p.m. and braved the bay area traffic, setting our sights on Yosemite and the amazing climbs we had lined up.

My two good friends, who I went climbing with this weekend, have decided to put their bodies through hell and do a detox diet that restricts them from eating and drinking a lot of things.  I didn’t complain because I like to eat healthy and because they were packing/bringing all the food for the weekend.  Truth be told, I was a little nervous that all I was going to be eating was food that naturally fell to its death but it turns out I wasn’t giving my friends enough credit.  We ate well all weekend!

Breakfast:
-Oatmeal with cranberries, bananas and pecans
-Hard boiled eggs with fresh cracked pepper
-Organic garlic jack cheese

Lunch:
-Carrots
-1 apple each
-Pesto wraps made with: lettuce, spinach pesto spread (homemade), sun dried tomatoes, cranberries, garlic jack cheese and pine nuts.

Dinner:
-Salad with: spinach pesto pasta, parmesan cheese, cranberries, sun dried tomatoes, crushed tortilla chips (organic, sea salt, blue corn), fresh tomatoes and salt and pepper.
*I snuck in a cliff bar during the day but that was about it…

All of the food was really really good and I do think that it helped our climbing, not to be stuffing our faces with cookies and other sugary foods that we normally would be inhaling.

I can’t say that it made me climb like a Yosemite Monkey but I did climb strong and achieved what my weekend goal was… to finally finish a multi-pitch climb without an epic!   On Saturday morning, we awoke at first light and headed out to climb Munginella, a three pitch, 5.6, 350 feet climb.  We were the first people on the climb and it took us a good 3 hours to do, hopefully we can shorten that time down as a party of three the next time we climb it.  The climbing was great and I love the second and third pitch of the climb.  On the third pitch of the climb, my friend and I had to switch spaces on a two foot wide ledge… needless to say, we got very friendly and I’m pretty sure there was some feeling up.  No problems there because I love my friend and her boyfriend got some pretty funny pictures overall.  Another great weekend in the Valley, making me even more hungry for climbing bigger and harder rocks.

Lauren Azevedo-Henderson is a climber and foodie with a degree in Art History. Lauren has been cooking all her life and has been seriously climbing for just over 2 years. While living in her ex-boyfriend’s van (only for long weekends or a week at a time) she started cooking what you would call “gourmet” food on a camp stone in the van. She now spends most of her time in Red Rock, NV and started writing her food/climbing blog “The Climbing Chef” just last year.

The Climbing Chef!

Friday, May 13th, 2011

We are happy to introduce you to Lauren, The Climbing Chef! You will be able to find her on the Chicks blog twice a month as well as on her own website here. Here is a little about Lauren:

My name is Lauren Azevedo-Henderson and I’m a climber and foodie. I have a degree in Art History, have been cooking all my life and have been seriously climbing for just over 2 years. When I say “seriously” I mean that rock climbing has taken over my life and I have been spending all free time climbing and speeding away on climbing trips. While living in my ex-boyfriend’s van (only for long weekends or a week at a time) I started cooking what you would call “gourmet” food on a camp stone in the van. I spend most of my time in Red Rock, NV and was figuring out how I could keep living the van life after moving away from San Francisco, CA. My father suggested writing a food/climbing blog and he named me “The Climbing Chef”. After a couple of months of climbing and daydreaming, I decided to start writing… and I haven’t stopped since.

For her first Chicks blog we are pulling from the archives of The Climbing Chef so you can see exactly where she started in her very first recipe post. Moving forward, once a month she will have a special feature article just for Chicks, and we will pick other select recipes from her archives for the second post of the month.

So, without further ado, here’s The Climbing Chef!

Lets just start by saying…

If you do not have climbing friends, then this might not be a known fact… Climbers can throw down on some food! And when we aren’t climbing the latest problem, a lot of us enjoy cooking some bomb food with our friends (and dogs).

Over the past year, climbing has taken over my life and the search for good food while climbing has begun.  I grew up eating amazing food, whether cooked by my grandma or mom, and later in life I have become a bit of a food snob. So… freeze dried food was automatically out!!

When it comes down to it, the climbing is the most important! Our quick lunches of PB&J and a granola bar can get old after a while… Dinner is a time for climbers to talk about the climbs of the day and gain enough energy to stay awake past sunset.

Last summer I was able to go to Tuolumne, CA and have an all girls climbing weekend.  A much needed break from our usual busy week of work/school/boyfriends/traffic… you get the picture.  What would an all girls climbing weekend be without wine? You can be sure that we drank wine… and probably too much at that :)

The basic breakfast of whole wheat bagels with cream cheese and jam were made and devoured while hiking up to the first climb, lunches of peanut butter and jelly were eaten with our backs on the cool granite.  But what is the best part about finishing a day of climbing, you may ask? You get to eat whatever you want and not care about the calorie count!! YAY :)

Making four cheese tortellini with pesto and salami:
-One package of four cheese fresh tortellini
-pre-made pesto (yes, I wish I would have made my own)
-peppered salami
-Hibachi grill (that is what we had)
-One pot… that isn’t big enough
-spork!

Because we left in a hurry, we only had one pot (that was bought at REI on the way), a Hibachi grill and a spork as a cooking utensil.  When these types of nights happen, don’t panic!… just do the best with what you have.  We made our tortellini in batches because the pot wasn’t big enough for all of the pasta and the grill took forever to get the water to boil.  The water never really did boiled, we just got impatient.  While cooking the pasta, we took the salami and cut it into strips and added it to the pesto.  That was placed on the grill and heated the best it could be.  After the pasta was cooked, we added the sauce and salami to the pasta and devoured.  It was really good!! The 1.5 liter of white wine washed the pasta down very very well :)

The food, climbing and company made the weekend…
I can’t wait to devour more food and rocks next time :)

FEAR: Your Greatest Ally…

Thursday, April 28th, 2011

Today we have a guest post from Almine Barton, who is a licensed acupuncturist and certified personal trainer as well as an avid rock climber.

“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ~John Wayne

FEAR: The very word drudges up mental images of cold sweats, “Jell-O legs,” clammy hands & rapid heartrate. Its been something we’ve been taught to avoid at all costs. Fear is synonymous with “Go Back!” But what if we’ve misjudged fear’s lessons? What if we’ve misunderstood its teachings?

In the April 2009 issue of “Outside” magazine, an article written called, “This is your brain on adventure” explored the neuro-chemistry behind pushing the boundry, exploring the edge, & why we need a bit of risk in our lives. To check out the article, go to the following link:

http://outside.away.com/outside/culture/200904/adventure-science-brain-1.html

“Paleo” man/woman lived in a state of survival. “Nothing fun about that,” you say. However, scientists are beginning to look at the possible way our brain gets “extra” creative when we’re forced to face our fears. There’s something to be said for safety. No one is questioning that. To be unsafe is silly, even faulty. However, there is a new school of thought amongst neuro-scientists that are beginning to differentiate between anxiety and true fear. True fear doesn’t actually appear to be all that harmful to the body. Anxiety does. In fact, in our remote-controlled, escalator-ridden world, scientists are seeing that certain neuro-peptides have become “lazy” or “complacent” in our modern society.

Yes, it’s of advantage that we don’t always have to wrestle a bear to get back to our “cave.” At the same time, scientists are growing concerned that we don’t always move past our places of comfort either. There is a healthy balance, and it will be an individual search within oneself to find it. I hear people say to me, “You rock climb? I could never do that. I’m afraid of heights.” I have an answer for them: I am too. I look at climbers that are so much more accomplished than I am, and esteem to have their bravery. If I know my equipment is sound, that there is redundancy in backing up my safety mechanisms, that my belay partner has double-checked everything, and that I am capable of the climb, then I ask myself, “Almine, what are youREALLY afraid of?”

There is an element of self-preservation which is completely natural. We all have these innate instincts. Tom Brown Jr., America’s most renowned tracker and wilderness survival expert, makes a distinction. He says, “My teacher, Stalking Wolf, told me, ‘The difference between the Apaches and the white settlers they encountered, is when the Apaches were afraid they moved towards whatever frightened them. The white settlers stepped back.”

The subtle art of knowing the difference between a “surface” level anxiety and a true gut-instinct of “move away” takes time to distinguish. According to Tom Brown, the majority of us mistake anxiety for a true fear. He said that true fear is actually rare in the wild.

Cultures, the world-over, have sought out to master their fears. This has taken place in a variety of ways. The Maya used cenotes (underground well-caves) to experience true darkness in the bosom of the earth…to experience fear welling up inside them…only to learn to calm their mind amongst it. According to Geologist and author Gregg Braden, temples of great civilizations were generally used to “isolate” certain emotions. It is there, in these temples, initiates sought out the internal power to master these emotions. For instance, Egyptologist, Graham Hancock, author of “Fingerprints of the Gods,” specifically states that the very bottom chamber of the great pyramid of Giza was used by the Egyptian initiates to “master their most innate darkness.” He states that the lower chamber (representing the “lower” or limbic part of the brain) has heiroglyphs etched into the walls indicating the word “fear,” or the “mastering thereof.”

In Chinese medicine, we look at the vital organs in terms of a more holistic approach. You really could liken them to complex systems, that each “house” or “rule” an emotion. For instance, the ancient medical text, the “Nei Jing,” or the “Yellow Emperor’s Cannon of Classic Medicine” (as its more commonly known) states, “The kidneys are the house of fear.” What does this mean? We do know, in western bio-medicine that the adrenal glands (which look like little “nightcaps” sitting on top of the kidneys) pump out cortisol, our “fight-or-flight” hormone. Chinese medicine is based on 2 main intertwined theories: the theory of yin/yang, and the 5-elements. Both of these theories come together to create a complex, yet completely organic whole-system, view of the human being. For every “yin” organ, there’s a “yang” organ. The kidneys are considered “yin,” its paired organ, the bladder is considered “yang.” The kidneys are said to “rule” the deepest fears of our human self: abandonment, survival, fear of the dark, of deep water, of heights, etc. The bladder is said to “rule” more anxiety, such as: “what am I going to do about money this month?,” “did I leave my stove on?,” etc. When we feel fear, people say, “I have to pee!” This is an obvious example of how when we feel anxious our bladder responds. “Kidney fear” is said to be mastered. “Bladder fear” is said to be ignored. There are a variety of meditation disciplines in the world to assist in quieting the mind. Lisa Rands, Steph Davis, Dean Potter, Chris Sharma…some of the most accomplished climbers in the world use one form of meditation or another to master their minds, and still their thoughts.

I use climbing as a metaphor because heights is such a common fear (the #2, to be exact…public speaking is #1). I ask myself, over and over, “Almine, if you know your gear is sound, and the climb is within your ability, what’s the problem?” I then look at my deepest fears, and do my best to move forward. I’m not always successful. Sometimes I can’t commit to the climb. Sometimes I can. This is why the Buddhists call the discipline of “stilling the mind” a “practice.” Every day is different, and you have to accept that. Be kind to yourself. Mastering our fears is the opposite of what we’ve all been taught to do.

We all grew up being fascinated by “Star Wars.” The graphics, the costumes, the archetypal story. However, nothing in “Star Wars” captured the imagination, of young and old, like the Jedi. Joseph Campbell, the brilliant mastermind behind the story line of “Star Wars” was one of the greatest mythologists the world has seen. His book “The Power of Myth” is an academic classic in the world of anthropology, history and philosophy. Did you ever stop to wonder where this great concept of the Jedis came from? The historical Egyptian “Jeds” were Campbell’s inspiration for the Jedis.” The Jeds were said to have “mastered their fears in the temples of Anubis. The underworld (the mind of fear) had no hold left on them.”

We are enamored with the timeless Jedis, because we too have the same fears that lurk within us: of the dark, the deep ocean, of small spaces, snakes, heights, the list goes on…insert your own fears.

As an Amazonian shaman said to me, “It is your job, as a human being to live free from fear. To live beyond the shadows of the mind. Do your best and practice diligently.”

To resist fear is cheating ourselves. It may have some lessons yet to teach us. Be open to yours, and in the way they come to you. Observe them when they come up, without judgement. They simply ARE. They’re neither good nor bad. They’re your teacher. Use your life circumstances to practice this, and as the Buddhists say, “The fear of death then, can have no hold on your mind.”

“I learned that courage was not the absence of fear, but the triumph over it. The brave man is not he who does not feel afraid, but he who conquers that fear.” -Nelson Mandela

Almine Barton is a licensed acupuncturist and certified personal trainer.  She runs 2 sports medicine clinics in Bend, OR., and Portland, OR.   She works closely with climbers, olympians, and competing “CrossFit” athletes in her practice, and enjoys seeing her patients achieve their fitness and wellness goals.  She and her husband Stanford, a certified “CrossFit” coach, live near “Smith Rock,” and enjoy the immense climbing opportunities that Central OR. has to offer.  She is an avid sport climber, “CrossFitter,” mtn. biker, trail-runner and Adventure Racer.  She has one Malamute named Tallon, who keeps her running trails all winter long.  Learn more about Almine at http://www.bendwellnessdoctor.com and on her blog at www.alminewellness.blogspot.com

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