Chick Beta: Quad Anchor

The Quad Anchor is a versatile method to equalize any anchor, but in this tech tip, we will focus on how to apply in a 2 point anchor scenario. You will most commonly use this when you have a 2 bolt anchor and the advantages to using a Quad Anchor are many:

  • It’s redundant
  • Self equalizes
  • Quick to tie
  • Easy to double check

What you will need to build a quad anchor:

  • 1 Cordelette (6mm Sterling Power Cord or 7mm nylon cord, at least 15 foot in length). Join the two ends with double fishermans or other knot of your choice.
  • 4 locking carabiners. I recommend 2 smaller locking carabiners like the Petzl Spirit Locking carabiner, and 2 pear shaped shaped locking carabiners like the Petzl Attache.

Sterling Cord

 

Steps:

  1. Double your cordelette over so you have 4 even strands of the cordelette. Position the knot that joins the two ends at one side of your loops. 

Quad anchor2. Tie an overhand knot on either end of the cordelette.  You should now be looking at 4 strands in the middle and two loops on either end. Keep them a little loose so you and slide the closer together or further apart depending on how much lateral movement you are going for. 

quad anchor

 

quad anchor
3. Clip your SMALL locking carabiners to the loops on either end of the cordelette. You will clip this to each of the two bolts.

quad anchor 2-point
4. Clip your LARGE locking carabiners to 3 out of the 4 strands in the middle. For best practice, make sure you opposite and oppose them. The reason why you clip only 3 out of 4 strands is because if one bolt fails, the carabiners will be trapped inside the 4 strands and not fall of the end. Another option is to clip one larger locker to 2 of the strands in the middle, and your other large locking carabiner to the other 2 strands.

quad anchor

 

quad anchor5. Voila, you now have a perfectly constructed self equalizing quad anchor rig that you can set up your top rope with.

Want more?

Check our Angela Hawse’s recent blog post on Building Climbing Anchors (video included)

 

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