CLINIC LEVELS
Learning the Basics
1) BEGINNING ICE CLIMBING: for those who have never ice climbed or have been fewer than 8 times. If you have some experience ice climbing, we will group you with other women of a similar level. This class focuses on the following skills:
a) climbing knots
b) belay techniques on a top rope (this may be a review for those of you with some experience)
c) safely lowering your partner off the top of a climb
d) ice climbing techniques: focusing on foot work, swinging an ice axe, tool placements, energy conservation, and body positioning
The most important part of beginning ice climbing is getting mileage on the ice! Keep at it before moving on to the next level. Don’t be afraid to really focus on the basics until they become second nature.
Honing Skills and Progressing
2) INTERMEDIATE ICE CLIMBING: for those who have ice climbed AT LEAST 8-16 times but have little experience following ice leads or taking out ice screws. You should be familiar with climbing knots and belay techniques. You will work on the following skills:
a) review knots and belaying
b) technique focus: honing footwork, tool placements, learning to conserve energy, and focus on body positioning
c) learn techniques used to progressively climb more difficult ice
d) practice taking out ice screws efficiently
e) review and practice anchor systems for ice climbing and rappelling
Try to get-out-there and experience ice climbing outside of Chicks. We recommend climbing at this level for several years before you move up to vertical ice and other higher levels. Make sure your techniques and confidence are solid. Explore and have fun with it!
Vertical Ice Focus
3) ADVANCED INTERMEDIATE: for those who have been ice climbing MORE than a dozen times or can follow grade 4 ice. You must know your knots well and be comfortable belaying, lowering, and rappelling. You must have experience following ice leads and taking out ice screws. This clinic is designed to give you mileage on steep ice – it is this experience that will best prepare you to lead ice.
a) warming up to hone your advanced skills
b) learn techniques and gain mileage on vertical ice
c) review the most efficient ways to remove ice screws on steep ice
d) review setting up anchors while learning about new and more complex systems, review rappelling
Now girls, go out and get more experience climbing steep ice on your own. You may be at this level for a while. THAT’S OK! Lead on ice ONLY when you are ready. Practice leading in the real-world before you decide to sign up for the next level. Leading ice is a serious endeavor….practice, practice, practice your ice skills first. Know that you will NOT fall off whatever you choose to lead! Never-ever lead beyond your ability.
Mixed Climbing
4) ADVANCED INTERMEDIATE TO ADVANCED: To sign up for this class, you need to be experienced on steep ice and more advanced ice climbing. This clinic is designed to introduce you to mixed climbing (that’s rock AND ice) techniques. You will also hone your steep ice skills while playing on mixed terrain.
Please note: if there is not enough women signed up for this class – you will need to specify your second choice.
- review steep ice skills
- learn the basics of tool and crampon placements on rock
- review and learn about gear placement
- review anchor systems while learning more about more complex systems, review rappelling
Advanced Skills and Lead Climbing
5) ADVANCED: To get here you must have a lot of experience outside of Chicks with Picks - climbing and leading ice. You must be able to comfortably lead grade 2-3 ice and have some experience doing so – on your own! (we require a resume with a list of climbs you've lead) This is for those of you who want to work on that mind-game of leading and focus on the details of being safe and efficient.
* Just because you’ve taken our other advanced intermediate classes doesn’t mean you are necessarily ready for this advanced class you must have prior experience leading.
a) take advantage of your expert guide and hone your ice climbing techniques
b) watch your guide demonstrate the most efficient ways to lead ice
f) demonstrate your leading ability and work on those skills (on a top rope)
g) follow leads and critique screw placements with your fellow-participants
d) review anchors and work on systems that apply to multi-pitch climbs
Now it’s all up to you to go out and lead easy to moderate climbs, get EXPERIENCE before you lead hard ice. It takes "time"… be patience and get a lot of mileage! Never lead anything you think you could fall off of. At this level, CONFIDENCE and PRACTICE is your greatest tool.
DISCLAIMER: In a perfect-world you will cover and practice all of these skills listed above. You will even have fun. But give us a little leeway to be flexible as circumstances arise: weather, crowds, time, and interest. Sometimes we may have to make choices to the best of our ability. Guides are professionals…they are also human, they will make decisions that are always BEST for you. Remember: do as they say because they are there for YOUR safety. Learn a lot, be safe and have a blast!
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SKILLS DAY (this applies to the "Complete Chicks with Picks" only)
The third day of "The Complete Chicks with Picks" clinic will be a "skills day" and will focus on technical aspects and techniques that may not be covered in your clinics. We need at least three people per workshop, so please choose a second and third choice. You will need to choose amongst the following workshops:
1) Rescue Workshop: This is an in-depth look at "systems". You will learn how to escape belay systems and how to lower a victim off a climb. You will also take a closer look at anchor and rappel systems. This workshop is appropriate for intermediate to advanced climbers
2) Mixed Climbing Techniques: This is an introduction to the world of mixed climbing, yes that's the placement of tools and crampons on rock with little or no ice. It is a very strenuous activity and an advanced intermediate to advanced level of ice climbing is recommended to enjoy and benefit most from this activity. (rock climbing skills help also)
3) Alpine Skills: You will spend the day away from the ice park in the mountains on Red Mountain Pass. This is an introduction to using an ice axe as it applies to mountaineering, glacier travel, and "self-arrest". These skills will help you arrive safely to those alpine ice climbs in the backcountry. Avalanche Awareness: As it applies to ice climbing: you will learn how to begin to judge the terrain and the snow pack. You will take a look at snow structure and practice using an avalanche rescue beacon.
4) Ice Climbing: This is designed for those of you who just simply want to focus on ice climbing while you are here and would like to spend more time on the ice. The focus will be on your technique and getting you on the ice as much as possible. This workshop is appropriate for any of you, especially beginners.
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