Which Crampons are right for you?
by Kitty Calhoun
Recently, I’ve been doing some thinking about crampon configurations and have asked some tech-queenie guys their opinions as well. The choices between crampon configurations are: duo-point vs mono-point and horizontal points vs vertical points. I wondered if one crampon worked better for mixed, if one crampon was better for longer routes, if one was better for brittle ice (or soft).
I asked three of the most techy guys I know: Mark Miller, Will Gadd, and Bill Belcourt (tech guy at Black Diamond). Each had a different opinion. Mark liked his mono-points for everything – mixed and ice and does not believe that a mono-point gives any less support on long routes than dou-points. He does not think that a mono-point is any more likely to shear in hollow ice or fracture brittle ice than a duo-point , whether horizontal or vertical.
Will Gadd likes his horizontal points for mixed and ice routes. He finds duo-points more stable than mono-points. Furthermore, he says that horizontal points allow you to climb ice more like you climb on rock because when you raise your heels, they are less likely than vertical points to break the ice and shear out. There were only a few unique places and conditions where he thought any other configuration out-performed horizontal points.
Bill Belcourt said that everyone has their own theory as to which configuration is best but none are verifiable by science. He does not like mono-points in less than vertical terrain because he feels it is more work to stand on your feet and keep your balance. The Black Diamond vertical duo-points (Cyborgs) have front-points with serrations on the teeth so they feel more secure when standing on mushrooms. They are heavier than the horizontal points, but you can change out the front points to mono-points or replace the points when they become worn out so the crampons last longer.
I would love to write more about choosing crampons, but space does not allow. I think that it is best to demo all types of crampons to find out what you like best. Personally I like the new BD crampons. Stainless is lighter, does not dull as easily, does not rust and has no toxic coatings on on them. In the meantime, it is fun to play with different configurations because it tends to focus your attention on your feet, which in itself would cause you to climb better!
Tags: Gear Reviews
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