Anniversaries Call for Reflection

photo of a pair of Original Terrordactyls.©Ashby Robertson c/o VerticalArchaeology.com

The Original Terrordactyls. “With those little clubs in my hands, I felt like a warrior”–Angela Hawse, co-owner Chicks Climbing and Skiing, IFMGA Mountain Guide. ©Ashby Robertson c/o VerticalArchaeology.com

This month Chicks is celebrating its 20th and I find myself reminiscing.

I started ice climbing in Ouray’s box canyon, at the north end of the Uncompahgre River Gorge.

It was 1985—a decade before the Ouray Ice Park came to be. At that time there were only a few climbs in the box canyon. These natural ice climbs were steep and intimidating.

I remember it was very cold and the ice was hard.

But 25 years ago, I felt invincible! Despite wool mittens and half-inch webbing that leashed my tools to my wrists and cut off my circulation, I still managed to fight my way to the top using ice axes just like those pictured above.

Two winters later I traveled with my boyfriend to the Highlands of Scotland. There I cut my multi-pitch-climbing teeth up a long gully on Buachaille Etive Mor in Glen Coe. I still vividly remember the aesthetic of that long strip of ice. It filled a deep cleft to the summit of this epic, pyramid-shaped mountain.

Climbing The Buachaille gave me things I had never experienced before: the surreal way the ice glistened, the quiet of winter and the singular reward of focused effort. I endured cold for hours. I suffered multiple bouts of screaming barfies. I banged my knuckles with every whack. But I walked off the summit knowing. Climbing made my heart sing.

When Kim Reynolds started Chicks in 1999, she invited me to guide. It was at Chicks that I found my tribe—strong, motivated and fun women. Together we were a force. I still climbed with my boyfriend but I’d discovered the magic that happens when climbing with other women. I became a Chicks lifer.

I continue to cherish the friendships and partnerships from all the years of Chicks; and, I can’t wait to party with my tribe here in Ouray where it all began for me 25 years ago.

I’d love to see you all here to help us celebrate women, climbing and Chicks.

For details on our big public party go to Chicks 20th Anniversary Celebration.

For the Chicks Alumni Happy Hour at Kitty’s House in Ouray, January 24, 2019 5-6pm. RSVP kittycalhoun007@gmail.com.

Still Kicking Axe,

Angela

Black Diamond Fuel vs Cobra Ice Climbing Tools

Black Diamond Fuel Ice Tool

Black Diamond Fuel Ice Tool

I love my Black Diamond Fuel Ice Tools.

This reflects a change of heart.

Recently, I dumped my Cobra tools and took up with a pair of Fuels.

For years the Cobra and I were in a solid and trusting relationship. They were my favorite ice climbing and technical alpine climbing tools.

I loved the Cobra for its intuitive swing—similar to a tennis serve or throwing a ball. With the Cobra much power and momentum comes with little effort. I also appreciated the Cobra for its exaggerated arc and clearance when climbing over bulges.

However, one day while climbing with my Cobras, I got extremely pumped on a strenuous lead. I lost all the strength to raise my elbow and drop my tool back. I could not execute a “proper” swing.  Instead, I found myself moving with an abbreviated and more downward motion. After this, I started looking for another tool.

What I found is that the proper swing of a Fuel is more abbreviated and downward.

The Fuel’s swing fits perfectly with the only kind of swing I have left when I’m totally gassed.

Since then, the Fuels and I have been tight.

But there is another reason why the Fuel has become my favorite ice climbing tool.

When I climbed with my Cobras, I was afraid to use the upper grip. I found the Cobra easily popped out of the ice if I exerted the least bit of outward pull.

Since, I was scared that my tools would pop, I climbed with an outdated technique. I glued my hands to my ice tools. Meanwhile, the newer, or more evolved ice climbing technique is to freely move ones hands, both between tools and up and down the shaft, as the terrain and climbing moves dictate.

The shape of the Fuel’s upper grip and shaft, on the other hand, are more forgiving of an accidental outward pull.

This means the Fuel has the potential to transform my ice climbing. Using the upper grip on an ice tool is extremely useful for maximizing reach. Also, the upper grip is useful for getting into an extended repertoire of body positions.

Thank You, Black Diamond Fuel, for giving me the confidence to continue to learn and grow my climbing.

Get More Specific Strength for Ice Climbing

Training for Ice Climbing? Time to dial it up!

Icing on the Climbing Cake–more specific strength for ice climbing.

Ice climbing is a different beast. Solid general fitness and specific strength is key to success.

If you’ve been following the Chicks Training tips recently you know about the last two ice-climbing-specific workouts.

Swing! Training for Ice Climbing helps build ice climbing fitness from a solid fitness base.

10 Steps to Muscular Endurance for Ice Climbing gives you some tips for using a climbing gym to build ice climbing fitness. Indoor climbing can help with grip strength and stamina. Climbing indoors with a pack will increase your pump and add core strength and muscular endurance.

Now it’s time to dial in a couple more pieces as well as take things up a notch.

This workout is for those

  1. Who have been training
  2. Have some ice climbing under their belt, and/or
  3. Are preparing for an upcoming Chicks clinic or ice climbing trip.

Train your Arms, Grip and Calves for Ice Climbing.

5:00 min warm up  (jump rope, ski erg, treadmill, cycling)

2 × 8 shoulder openers

2 x 5 cuban press

2 x 5 push ups

2 x 10 (5 x per side) turkish get up with light weight

Then:

Pull ups

The technique you use for this workout will depend on where you are with your pull up strength.

The following three videos show pull-up variations. The final one shows the lock off training sequence.

Do Pull ups on dowels or your ice tools placed over a pull up bar.

Use assistance if necessary. Use a band, small jump, toe on a chair, or a friend holding your feet to help take some weight.

Lock off at the top of the pull up for 1- 3 secs depending on your strength. Lower to 3 more positions from the top. Lock off for up to three secs at each position.

These lock offs should be controlled.

Try not to drop into the shoulder joint at full extension.

Do 3 – 5 reps in a row, depending on your strength.

Rest 5 minutes between sets and repeat 3 – 5 times. Again, reps, rounds and technique variation will depend on fitness.

Weighted Calf Raises

While resting, load up a pack, wear a weight vest or hold something heavy (15 – 30#). Do weighted calf raises, ideally, in your ice climbing or mountain boots. Calf raises can easily be done on a step.

Do 10 calf raises every minute on the minute for 3 minutes. In other words, start the clock or timer for 1 minute. Do 10 reps and rest for the remainder of the minute. When the second minute starts, do 10 reps again and then rest for the remainder of the second minute. Do the same for the third round. Three rounds/minutes will use 3 minutes of your 5-minute rest. Fully rest the remaining 2 minutes.

Then:

Go back to the pull-up-lock-off drill.

Repeat both exercises 3-5 times.

This calf workout in between lock off practice is a great combo for ice climbing.

Bonus

We all know core work is critical.

Here’s a little “Ab-pocalypse” for the end of the session:

30 sec sit up

30 sec V-seat hold

60 sec mtn climber

30 sec flutter kick

60 sec plank one foot off the floor for 30 sec then switch elevated foot.

30 sec KTE – knees to elbows

60 sec rest

3 – 5 rounds

 

Enjoy!

And Happy New Year!!

Carolyn

If you need information for a specific climb or trip of any nature you can contact me at:

carolyn@rippleffectraining.com

970-773-3317

Carolyn Parker

Founder Ripple Effect Training

Gym Jones, Fully Certified Instructor

AMGA Certified Rock Guide

A Love letter to my Patagonia Capilene Midweight Crew

Kitty Calhoun shows of her new retro-stripe Patagonia Capilene Midweight Crew

Function AND fashion. Kitty dressed for skiing in Patagonia’s retro stripe Midweight Capilene Crew. ©Kitty Calhoun Collection

Dear Patagonia Capilene Midweight Crew,

Who Says You Can’t Improve on Mother Nature?

I live in my baselayers, which means I live in you!

It doesn’t matter if I’m ice climbing, skiing or need a long-sleeve shirt for cool-weather-rock-climbing. Patagonia Midweight Crew, I wear you to the grocery store, to yoga and just lounging around the house.

I know that many people prefer Merino wool because it’s soft, warm-even-when-wet and naturally controls odor. I like Merino too, but I love Capilene and you, Patagonia Capiline Midweight Crew, are my number one choice.

Some people ask me why I choose Capilene over Merino when wool is all-natural and has an exceptional feel.

Capilene Midweight Crew, I choose you because you EXCEL!

You are the best at wicking moisture away from my body.

You dry the fastest.

You breathe the most efficiently.

(This is why Patagonia blends their Merino wool line with Capilene—to increase durability, wicking and drying time.)

Capilene Midweight Crew, I choose you and I love you even more for your special “techy” features.

Your odor control is permanent—stopping the growth of smelly bacteria dead in its tracks.

Your smooth face makes layering comfortable–you don’t bind and bunch.

On the inside, your brushed-back-grid helps wick moisture away from my body even better. It also increases your warmth without adding weight.

And, to top it off, Patagoinia Capilene Midweight Crew, I’m crazy about your new Retro-Stripe color option.

Thank you Capilene Midweight Crew for keeping me comfortable, warm, dry and also very fashionable!

‘Tis the Season for Avalanche Training

Karen Bockel teaches Chicks Skiing Backcountry Hut trip participants about the avalanche forecast, avalanche problems types and terrain maps before going skiing

Snowfunatall! Studying avalanche forecast, avalanche problem types and terrain maps before going skiing. Chicks Skiing Backcountry Hut Trip, 2017. ©Jen Edney

Early winter is a great time for Chicks Skiing avalanche training.

Brush up on your avalanche rescue skills, refresh your avalanche understanding and get busy reading your local avalanche forecast.

Get Avy Savy!

Following are two great resources to get you thinking about snow safety. Especially during the holiday travel season, you might find yourself at a new ski area or in new backcountry terrain.

This first video, An Introduction to the North American Avalanche Danger Scale, explains the North American Danger Scale and is produced by the National Avalanche Center.

Every forecast center in the US and Canada uses the North American Danger Scale to rate the avalanche hazard for the day. It’s important that you are familiar with this messaging tool. Understanding the North American Danger Scale will help you understand the avalanche forecast anywhere you might go in the mountains this winter.

This second video, Avalanche Problems Explained, provides further information with an explanation of the avalanche problem types that forecast centers use. These avalanche problem types give you a better idea of what kind of avalanches you need to be concerned about in a specific region. It really helps to identify the specific and particular hazards out there. Avalanche Problems Explained is my go-to for more information when I am reading a forecast

Ski Safely Ladies and I’ll see you on the slopes.

A Skiing Legacy

Newspaper clipping of Kitty Calhoun age 5-years skiing with her Dad at Cataloochi ski area, North Carolina

Skiing Legacy—learning how to ski with Dad ©Kitty Calhoun Collection

“We have to get dressed. We’re going skiing.”

One of the last memories I have of my dad is of him saying this as he tried to get out of a hospital bed while under the haze of Alzheimers.

“Not today Pops,” I said and gently helped him back to bed.

I love skiing and always have.

Growing up, my Dad took me every weekend.

We drove up into the mountains of North Carolina—just the two of us. There was nothing better than being outside all day, skiing and then coming in tired and happy.

Once when I was seven-years-old, Dad and I somehow got separated. Dense fog had descended and pellets of graupel stung my face. Chilled to the bone, my tears instantly froze my eyelashes shut.

“Kit, Kit, where are you?” I heard Dad’s desperate voice through the mist.

The next thing I remember is being scooped up and set by a fireplace where the icicles melted off my eyelashes.

Much later I realized that most of my ski days were spent standing in lift lines, meanwhile, there were no lines to climb frozen waterfalls or peaks.

I bought a beacon, shovel and probe and learned about avalanche safety from a book. I fit my climbing boots into cable bindings and mounted them onto cross-country skis with metal edges.

Then, for many years, skiing became about getting into the backcountry to go climbing. The only problem was my skis were not made for the extra torque; more than once my bindings pulled off my skis while I was loaded down with a multi-day climbing pack. (But, that’s what duct tape’s for!)

The truth is my dad passed his skier’s heart on to me.

I often fantasize of skiing silently through forests and over hillsides blanketed with velvety, shimmering snow on a bluebird day.

Skiing untracked powder, then celebrating by a fire with family, friends or Chicks participants still brings back the giddy excitement I felt as a kid.

In this season of giving, it seems to me that one of the greatest gifts is that of experience. The memories of all the times Dad took me skiing are priceless and I relive them to this day.

Join Chicks in 2019 where the skiing legacy continues with Chicks Skiing clinics, backcountry hut trips and avalanche awareness skills

Chicks Climbing and Skiing Celebrates 20 Years During the 2019 Ouray Ice Festival

Ouray, Colo. (December 11, 2018) – In the third quarter of 2018, it was reported that the already small percentage of female Fortune 500 CEOs is falling. Thankfully, the number of women leaders who continue to send in the mountains is rising. And to the leaders and fans of Chicks Climbing and Skiing, that’s cause for celebration.

Chicks Climbing and Skiing celebrates a landmark anniversary in January, 2019: 20 years of providing a launch pad, permission, support resources, stoke, camaraderie, and a path to success for female climbers, alpinists, skiers and riders.

Unlike the boardroom, the mountains have always been the Great Equalizer. Whether you’re female or male, your level of dedication, motivation, focus, talent and stoke are what determine your success.

Chicks Climbing and Skiing continues to be on the sharp end, preparing and launching more female climbers and skiers to both the world’s highest peaks and cliffs, and local crags and skiing areas across the country.

And the Chicks team wants to celebrate the mission and to honor all of the people who’ve made the impact of Chicks possible. The Ouray Ice Festival is the most fitting global venue to support this important effort and in true Chicks style, a legendary party is in the works that you’re invited to.

A 20thanniversary party will be held January 25, 2019 at the Ouray Community Center during the 2019 Ouray Ice Festival.  To start, we will host a 30 minute social/performance by Bibi McGill, known as the lead guitarist and musical director of Beyonce’s backing band, the Suga Mamas. Immediately following, there will be a showing of 20/20, a new film chronicling the remarkable mountaineering achievements of women from the pioneering climbers of the 1800s to modern day mavens, sending lines and laying down first ski descents.

From climber Annie Peck waving a suffragist flag at 21,000 feet in the Andes, to skier Caroline Gleich showcasing environmental activism, the 20-year Chicks celebration will be a once-in-a-lifetime gathering of women pushing the limits on what it takes to further American alpinism and skiing.

Angelika Reiner

Steph Davis

Kitty Calhoun

Mayan Smith-Gobat

Caroline Gleich

Chantel Astorga

HIlaree Nelson

Alison Osius, executive editor of Rock & Ice, and a pioneering female climbing journalist, will moderate a panel of the women starring 20/20, which anchors the celebration.

The film and panel discussion will offer a first-ever deep dive into the motivation, risk, vision, and the future of women pushing the limit in mountain sport. Hearing this first hand from the unique perspective of the women who have excelled in their respective mountain sports will make this a historic occasion. We hope you’ll join us!” said Kitty Calhoun, co-owner of Chicks Climbing and Skiing.

The Ouray Ice Fest is the “annual gathering of the tribe” and the main fundraiser for the Ouray Ice Park, which depends entirely on donations. All proceeds from the Chicks 20thCelebration will go to the Ouray Ice Park.  For more info on the Ouray Ice Festival, go to http://ourayicepark.com/ouray-ice-festival.

Chicks Climbing and Skiing would like to thank the generous support of Patagonia as the 20th-anniversary event title sponsor.

ABOUT CHICKS CLIMBING AND SKIING:
Chicks Climbing was founded in 1999 with the goal of Empowering Women through Mountain Sports. Chicks Skiing launches in 2015, and will round out the vertical experiences designed specifically for adventurous women seeking to explore their limits and build friendships in the mountains. Chicks offers transformational experiences for women climbers and skiers domestically and internationally. The organization upholds a strong tradition of both community and of giving back, especially in areas of access and land management. To learn more about Chicks Climbing and Skiing, visit www.Chickswithpicks.net.

A Love Letter to My Scarpa Phantom Techs

So sexy! Scarpa's Phantom Tech Ice Climbing Boot

So sexy! Scarpa’s Phantom Tech Ice Climbing Boot

Dear Scarpa Phantom Techs,

It’s that time of year again when I have more time for you and we can pick up where we left off last season on some of our favorite frozen waterfalls. Although I have terribly cold toes 365 days a year (poor circulation), you manage to keep me warm out on the ice where suffering used to be the norm.

What I love most about you is your svelt, tech look and feel. Not only do I look good with you on my feet, I climb better than ever. It’s remarkable what your lightweight nature has done to make all that fancy footwork a breeze.

Your integrated gator is super sexy and super functional and as we all know, the old days of gators have come to an end in the world of fashion and function.

I also appreciate how comfy you are on the approach and descent. Just loosening you up a bit makes a world of difference when we’re walking. Yet, even with gloves on, you’re quick and easy to tighten at the base of a cold climb. And you keep my heel locked in place exactly where I need it.

I promise to bring you in out of the cold, warm you up when we’re done, and take good care of you again this season, just like you do for me. 

 Thank you,

Angela

Train Muscular Endurance for Ice Climbing

learning to ice climb in the ouray ice park from Chicks guide, Carolyn Parker

Thumbs up for core endurance. Learning to ice climb in the Ouray Ice park. ©Carolyn Parker

Train muscular endurance for ice climbing this season!

Ice climbing is different. There are no crimpers or slopers. You always have a jug to hold onto—your tools! But swinging a tool overhead, holding on while placing or removing protection, longer pitches, the weight of winter gear (boots, crampons and multiple layers of clothing) and often climbing with a pack, all add up.

Ice climbing can give you a full body pump and gas your arms like never before.

So, we need to train muscular endurance.

First, before you start to train, you should determine if you are on your game strength-and-fitness-wise.

Go to Swing! Training for Ice Climbing where you will find:

  1. Questions meant to help guide you towards understanding and building your foundational fitness
  2. Specific strength training exercises for ice climbing

Now, you’ve decided that you’re ready to train muscular endurance for ice climbing, but you don’t live anywhere near readily accessible ice, or you have to train inside due to that funny thing called work, then read on…

10 Steps to Muscular Endurance for Ice Climbing

  1. Head to the climbing gym with your climbing pack and approach shoes or light-hiking boots.
  2. Load your pack with a few full water bottles (start with 8 – 10 lbs).
  3. Pick easier routes to focus on big muscles. Steep is still ok, but with big holds.
  4. Warm up with a few shoulder openers, wall squats, a few push-ups, Turkish get-ups and pull-ups
  5. Wear your approach shoes or light-hiking boots to climb (if the gym is ok with it). The point is to climb with shoes that are less precise then climbing shoes.
  6. Use the auto belay or find a partner who is stoked to train too.
  7. Climb with your weighted pack. Use a reasonable load to start. If climbing with no pack is hard enough, then start there. The pack will pull on your upper body and help mimic the torso position required to swing a tool overhead while ice climbing. (Hint:try a 10 min session without the pack first to gage where you are.)
  8. Climb continuously for 10 minutes. Climb up and down. Don’t lower or rest on the ground. While you are climbing, practice working through the pump: shake, breathe and keep moving. We are working on stamina.
  9. Try four rounds: 10 minutes of continuous movement, followed by 10-15 min rest. Work/rest can be alternated with a training partner using a you-go, I-go approach. If you are training on your own then do mobility work, foam rolling, and core work during the rest period.
  10. If four rounds goes well, increase the time you stay on the wall or add more weight, or both for the next session.

This workout will give you a full upper body pump and a nice pump in the arms too, for “icing” on the training cake!

Enjoy and get the stoke high for the Chicks Ice Season!!

If you need information for a specific climb or trip of any nature you can contact me at:

carolyn@rippleffectraining.com

970-773-3317

Carolyn Parker

Founder Ripple Effect Training

Gym Jones, Fully Certified Instructor

AMGA Certified Rock Guide

Grabber’s All Weather Blanket is a Jewel

Grabher's All Weather Blanket cut to the size of my sleeping pad and then all rolled up together. Looks like a jelly roll.

Grabher’s All Weather Blanket cut to the size of my sleeping pad and then all rolled up together. Looks like a jelly roll.

Grabber, who we love for their little nuggets of BTUs packaged as hand and toe warmers, also makes an excellent emergency, all-weather blanket called All Weather Blanket. Originally developed for the NASA space program, this lesser-known jewel has been a part of my kit for decades.

Although many folks shun “emergency blankets” as hokey, guides always carry some sort of shelter in their packs.

In the winter, this might be as much as a rescue sled that doubles as a shelter. Mostly, though, guides carry at least a bivy sack or tarp in their packs.

A bivouac or “bivy” sack or tarp can be useful, even life saving, in many situations. Think of a sudden summer thunderstorm or an unexpected early season snow combined with an unfortunately twisted ankle.

Grabber’s All Weather Blanket stands out for its durability and versatility. I use mine for a ground tarp when I sleep out under the stars and I sort my rack and flake my rope on it too.

But here’s my all time best trick for a Grabher All Weather Blanket:

I use one in my winter and more minimalist kit, cut up to custom fit and protect my Neo Air Thermarest. Using an All Weather Blanket like this also provides additional insulation from the cold ground. But, if you’ve got a super light mattress, you know how vulnerable they feel even protected by your tent floor.

So, grab a Grabber All Weather Blanket. Fit it to your mattress and you’ll have a multi-purpose tarp that’ll extend the life of your pad and help ensure a good night’s sleep when you need it most.

Bingo!