Train Muscular Endurance for Ice Climbing

learning to ice climb in the ouray ice park from Chicks guide, Carolyn Parker

Thumbs up for core endurance. Learning to Ice climb in the Ouray Ice park. ©Carolyn Parker

Train muscular endurance for ice climbing this season!

Ice climbing is different. There are no crimpers or slopers. You always have a jug to hold onto—your tools! But swinging a tool overhead, hoding on while placing or removing protection, longer pitches, the weight of winter gear (boots, crampons and multiple layers of clothing) and often climbing with a pack, all add up.

Ice climbing can give you a full body pump and gas your arms like never before.

So, for ice climbing we need to train muscular endurance.

First, before you start to train muscular endurance for ice climbing you should determine if you are on your game strength-and-fitness-wise.

Go to Swing! Training for Ice Climbing where you will find:

  1. questions meant to help guide you towards understanding and building your foundational fitness
  2. specific strength training exercises for ice climbing

So, you’ve decided that you’re ready to train muscular endurance for ice climbing, but you don’t live anywhere near readily accessible ice, or you have to train inside due to that funny thing called work, then read on…

10 Steps to Muscular Endurance for Ice Climbing

  1. Head to the climbing gym with your climbing pack and approach shoes or light-hiking boots.
  2. Load your pack with a few full water bottles (start with 8 – 10 lbs).
  3. Pick easier routes to focus on big muscles. Steep is still ok, but with big holds.
  4. Warm up with a few shoulder openers, wall squats, a few push-ups, Turkish get-ups and pull-ups
  5. Wear your approach shoes or light-hiking boots to climb (if the gym is ok with it). The point is to climb with shoes that are less precise then climbing shoes.
  6. Use the auto belay or find a partner who is stoked to train too.
  7. Climb with your weighted pack. Use a reasonable load to start. If climbing with no pack is hard enough, then start there. The pack will pull on your upper body and help mimic the torso position required to swing a tool overhead while ice climbing. (Hint:try a 10 min session without the pack first to gage where you are.)
  8. Climb continuously for 10 minutes. Climb up and down. Don’t lower or rest on the ground. While you are climbing, practice working through the pump: shake, breathe and keep moving. We are working on stamina.
  9. Try four rounds: 10 minutes of continuous movement, followed by 10-15 min rest. Work/rest can be alternated with a training partner using a you-go, I-go approach. If you are training on your own then do mobility work, foam rolling, and core work during the rest period.
  10. If four rounds goes well, increase the time you stay on the wall or add more weight, or both for the next session.

This workout will give you a full upper body pump and a nice pump in the arms too, for “icing” on the cake!

Enjoy and get the stoke high for the Chicks Ice Season!!

If you need information for a specific climb or trip of any nature you can contact me at:

carolyn@rippleffectraining.com

970-773-3317

Carolyn Parker

Founder Ripple Effect Training

Gym Jones, Fully Certified Instructor

AMGA Certified Rock Guide

Ski Legs

Carolyn Parker, founder Ripple Effect Training, working her ski legs on the way to the Grands Mulets Hut, Mont Blanc Massif, French Alps. ©Robbie Klimek 

Carolyn Parker, founder Ripple Effect Training, working her ski legs on the way to the Grands Mulets Hut, Mont Blanc Massif, French Alps. ©Robbie Klimek

Training for Skiing

Three Workouts for Ski Leg Prep

Hey you!

Stop dreaming of winter.

Start transitioning your legs to ski-mode now!

Warm-Up for Ski Legs Training

Do 10:00 minutes of light aerobic exercise.

Then:

2 x 8 Shoulder openers

2 x 5 Cuban press

3 x 5 Wall squat 

2 x 5 Squat jump

Ski Legs Training Workout Option 1

5 rounds of

KB Spike Swings. (Work; then rest for as long as the work portion lasted, increase weight each round)

Then:

5-7 rounds of

8 Accelerating Back Squats(squat to depth-hold, then “jump” or accelerate out of the bottom of the squat) + 5 Burpees (fast minimal rest)

Ski Legs Training Workout Option 2

5 rounds of

5 Split Squats per leg + 8 Box Jumps

Then:

5 rounds of

10 x Weighted Sit Up

20 x Lateral Jumpsover paralette, or on/off Bosu

Ski Legs Training Workout Option 3

1 – 10 SquatLadder with Partner. (Optional: Hold a KB or DB in hands at chest height to add weight to ladder) partners begin by holding at the bottom of the squat movement. Player one does one squat then holds at the bottom. Player two then does their first squat. Player One then performs two squats while player two is holding. Then player two does two squats while player one holds at the bottom of the squat. Players alternate reps and holds up to 10. Don’t cheat and don’t break the hold.

Then:

5 rounds X

20 x Split Jump(10 per leg) + 30 sec running sprint. rest 60 secs

Then:

4 rounds X

30 secs Mountain Climbers+ 30 secs sit ups + 60 sec rest

COOL DOWN

If you are unsure how to perform any of these movements, please reach out and find professional instruction.

If you are interested in online training, need guidance for a specific climb or trip of any nature you can contact me at:

carolyn@rippleffectraining.com

Carolyn Parker

Founder, Instructor, Athlete, Mountain Guide
970-773-3317 cell
Founder Ripple Effect Training

Coach for Uphill Athlete

AMGA Certified Rock Guide
Gym Jones, Fully Certified Instructor

Swing! Training for Ice Climbing

How to swing a tool? Carolyn Parker, founder Ripple Effect Training, teaching ice climbing in the Ouray Ice Park. ©Carolyn Parker collection 

How to swing a tool? Carolyn Parker, founder Ripple Effect Training, teaching ice climbing in the Ouray Ice Park. ©Carolyn Parker collection

All outcome-based training must be laid on a solid foundation.

So let’s check in first.

Ask yourself:

1) Do I have a well-developed cardio vascular system, good resting heart rate, rapid heart rate recovery? Do I have a regular aerobic fitness program, 4 – 5 days a week 30 – 90+ minutes?

2) Have I addressed my postural and mobility issues? Do my joints have good range of motion? Have I taken steps to correct my posture if necessary through yoga or other stretching routines?

3) Do I have a well-rounded, balanced strength base on which to begin more difficult training to avoid injury? This could come from rock climbing, body weight workouts, or gym strengthening classes, or best yet all of the above.

If you answered NO, you will benefit not only in your climbing but also in your health, life and injury prevention if you build foundational fitness first.

Please reach out to me directly if you are interested in an online coaching plan carolyn@rippleffectraining.com.

If you can say YES to all of the above let’s dive in!

Ice Climbing is a unique sport. It requires strength overhead to swing an ice tool, solid core strength to stabilize the body while swinging and while moving upward on single points of contact, good leg strength and muscular endurance, especially calves, to hang out on front points while placing gear or finding the perfect tool placement.

Following are some strength exercises that will help you get fit for ice climbing.

Upper Body:

Overhead Triceps Extensions

Pull Overs

Pull Ups (can be assisted)

Pull Ups on 1” dowels or your ice tools to orient hands and forearms into the necessary alignment for ice climbing movements.

Strict Press, although this is considered an arm/upper body movement, it’s also a test of “core” strength to stabilize mass overhead.

Core Strength:

KTE (knees to elbows) arms locked off if possible, this will also help with grip strength. Do these on dowels as well.

Anchored Leg Lowers, legs weighted with light med ball or ankle weights if appropriate, mimics weight of boots on feet.

Leg Strength and Calf Endurance:

KB Swings and Ball Slams will help you “learn” to effectively use your hips and legs while climbing. Both are “hip, glute, leg” driven movements but also challenge grip strength, core strength, and are so complex that they become a great challenge for the cardio vascular system.

Calf Raises: Perform standard calf raise on a step or platform for 30 seconds. Complete as many reps as you can but don’t go crazy! This gets hard fast. Then hold a static position, feet parallel to floor for 30 seconds. Then go right back to 30 seconds of calf raises for the second set. Don’t rest until all rounds are complete. Begin with a few sets of 30 secs work/30 secs hold. Then increase the challenge by doing more sets. Walk around bit afterward and stretch.

Note: If you hike, run, bike, your calves are tight!

Now for a workout using the above movements:

Ice Climbing Workout

10 minute warm-up: row, bike, run

Then:

2 × 8 Shoulder Openers

2 x 5 Cuban Press

3 × 5 Wall Squats

3 x 6 Goblet Squats

Then:

5 x Overhead Triceps Extension

10 x KTE

10 x Ball Slams

5 rounds – rest as necessary

Then:

5 x Pull Up on dowels

10 x KB Swing

5 x Strict Press

5 rounds – rest as necessary

Then:

4 x 30/30 Calf Raise and Hold

Then:

Cool Down

This can be broken into two different workouts if the volume of work is too much. You can supplement with the other movements that are referenced above.

And most importantly have fun with this and your ice climbing season!

 

If you need information for a specific climb or trip of any nature you can contact me at:

carolyn@rippleffectraining.com

970-773-3317

Carolyn Parker

Founder Ripple Effect Training

Gym Jones, Fully Certified Instructor

AMGA Certified Rock Guide

Focused Balancing Workout —For Climbers

Cranking hard and feeling good! Carolyn Parker sewing up Rawhide (5.10+), Sandia Mountain Wilderness, NM. ©Kennan Harvey

Cranking hard and feeling good! Carolyn Parker sewing up Rawhide (5.10+), Sandia Mountain Wilderness, NM. ©Kennan Harvey

The monsoon is past. The temperature has dropped. Rosehips are a deep pink.

Rock Season is in its height.

Fall is the time to climb hard, a ton.

But as much as climbing feels good, it can imbalance you. Climbing a ton can create “negative movement patterns,” or what I call, Too-Much-of-a-Good-Thing syndrome. Negative movement patterns create muscle imbalances that can eventually lead to injuries.

My Focused Balancing Workoutcan help you stay injury-free during peak climbing season and year round!

Focused Balancing Workout

A

Light warm up

B

2 x 8 Shoulder openers

2 x 5 Cuban press

3 x 5 Wall squat

Focused hip flexor and quad stretch

C

3 TGU per side (light to moderate weight)

5 x 8 Push up

D

Dips (can be assisted)

5 Overhead press (with appropriate weight)

5 X 60 sec FLR (plank; hands on rings)

E

Cool down with more chest and hip mobility.

Hip Flexor/Hamstring Stretch

Hip Flexor and Hamstring Stretch

Shoulder Stretch

Shoulder Stretch 1. Can be done on a foam roller or bench for more stretch.

Shoulder Stretch. Can be done on a foam roller or bench for more stretch.

Chest Opener

Chest Opener. Can be done on a foam roller or bench for more mobility.

 

If you are interested in online training, need guidance for a specific climb or trip of any nature you can contact me at:

carolyn@rippleffectraining.com

Carolyn Parker

Founder, Instructor, Athlete, Mountain Guide
970-773-3317 cell
Founder Ripple Effect Training

Coach for Uphill Athlete

AMGA Certified Rock Guide
Gym Jones, Fully Certified Instructor

 

Training Corner: Expectations

We’re in the height of climbing season and hopefully you’re all getting out and having fun!

Whether you’ve set goals for alpine climbing trips, multi-pitch routes, just generally climbing harder, or learning this awesome sport of climbing for the first time, what I find consistent with all the athletes I coach is not having realistic expectations of progression, which ultimately leads to frustration.

It happens to all of us: I can remember a time in my early twenties (that was a long time ago mind you) that I got so frustrated with my “lack” of performance on a climb I swore I was going to sell my rack. Ok, so I didn’t, but I wanted to.

Sometimes frustration can be a motivator for sure, but sometimes it can undermine our confidence and even take the joy out of the sport.

Over the last few years, I’ve endeavored to give you all training program outlines for climbing and skiing fitness, outlined strength training programs, created progressions and tools for improving, but now I’d like to fill my role as a coach to talk about the “process” of climbing as far as getting better.

So often we are our own worst enemy, putting too much pressure on ourselves or having unrealistic expectations about progress, where we should be, and what it takes to break through a plateau in our climbing.

Repeat these words to yourself whenever you’re in doubt.

First: all climbers have been afraid.

Second: everyone worked hard to be where they are.

Third: everyone has had a bad day. (or ten)

Fourth: everyone has cried about it at some point, or had a tantrum, or sulked, or gone into some crazed depression…I know, just over the sport of climbing.

Embrace this and know it. If you see people climbing hard, understand they worked to get there. If they can’t admit their struggles to you, they are a douche bag. Ignore them.

All climbers begin by steadily improving and working through the grades, sport or trad. Just by going climbing and trying you will get better. At some point, however, you will hit your first plateau. 5.9, 5.10, 5.12 wherever it is; believe me there are many plateaus to be hit, you will hit yours. At this point the process requires a different approach.

Suddenly you need to “train” in a more structured manner, and you need to fail, and then try and try and try again to succeed if you want to gain the skill, strength, and ability to climb beyond your plateau. Many people are afraid of “failure” but failure is part of the process. Everyone that is good at anything has had to overcome failures. If you’re not trying hard enough to fail you won’t beget success.

Challenge yourself to try routes or boulder problems that you think you can’t touch. So you can only link a few moves at a time… Perfect. Two things happen when you try. First you become stronger, finger and contact strength, then your body begins to “learn” new movement. Feel confident and comfortable enough to rehearse movements. Then begin linking moves. If you try a new route or boulder problem and in one week you manage to get one move further you’ve made progress. Try and fail try and fail try and fail…then try and succeed! Once your body understands what it feels like, what it takes to climb the next grade harder the next route will be easier. Mentally and physically.

Try backcountry routes or longer trad climbs that make you nervous. Go with a competent partner. have the skill and knowledge to complete the climb but back off if you need to. Every time you are out you learn, over time that volume of experience will give you the confidence to try bigger, harder, more advanced climbs.

Many athletes reach out to a coach to give them guidance on a wide range of topics, including how to use their limited time best to train, video movement analysis to climb more efficiently, programming for specific training, or accountability to get the work done. Whatever the need, there are people to help support progressing climbers.

Seek the guidance of mentors as the support of others with more experience can be a game changer in giving you the confidence to try. A mentor can even save your life; in the big mountains where the game has greater consequences their advice may make all the difference.

Be patient with the process, remember climbing is a luxury, make sure you are having fun! Even if it’s type II fun ( :

Final Note:

It’s ok to be hard on yourself but not too hard…set reasonable expectations.

As always: for more detailed information regarding coaching or training you can contact me at  carolyn@rippleffectraining.com

Carolyn Parker

Founder Ripple Effect Training

Gym Jones Certified

AMGA Rock Guide

Uphill Athlete Coach

 

Training Corner: Alpine Strength

Author Carolyn Parker demonstrates a Split Squat. Photo credit Sabre Rafelson

Training Corner: Alpine Strength

by Carolyn Parker

If you are new to the Chicks Training Tips take a few minutes to read the previous newsletters, there’s a lot of great information in there!

We are in the thick of alpine climbing season in the US, Europe, and parts of South America. If you have a trip coming up, or you are plotting for next year’s ambitions, we’ve got some training tips for you.

The last training tip discussed how to get the stamina built for long back to back days in the mountains, while still having a job, life, family, all the demands of a busy schedule. Now to complement the stamina we need STRENGTH.

Fortunately if we do quality focused work one to two days a week in the gym for an hour, that’s plenty of time to build a quality strength base for your alpine endeavors.

We need to have strength in our legs to tolerate not only the nature of the uneven terrain and the weight of the pack but also to protect our joints, especially our knees, so we can climb for years to come.

To get legs and core strong for the mountains, two of my favorite two leg or “close” chain movements are the deadlift and front squat.

Just as important are these: single leg movements for glute strength, balance, and hip stability; Single Leg Straight Leg Deadlift (SLSLDL), split squats, and weighted step ups.

Here are a few sample workouts (WO) to give you guidance in working these movements into your routine as training for alpine climbing. These can be done just once a week in addition to your other training or two times if you are recovering well.

 

WO#1

warm up 10:00

2 x 8 shoulder openers

2 x 5 cuban press

3 x 5 wall squat

3 x 6 goblet squat

30m walking lunge forward and backward (or ten steps per leg in place)

Then:

Work up to something that’s heavy for 3 reps (3RM) for your Front Squat.

Then:

8 x 3 Front Squats@ ______# rest 1 – 2 minutes between sets.

Then:

10x weighted split squats (5 per leg)

10x ball slam

10x split jump

x 5

Cool down

 

WO#2

warm up 10:00

2 x 8 shoulder openers

2 x 5 cuban press

3 x 5 wall squat

3 x 3 SLSLDL with a light kb or DB

Then:

Work up to a heavy-ish Deadlift

Then:

5 x 5 Deadlift

Rest 2:00 between sets:

During rest complete 5x Push up + 5x Pull Up

Then:

1-10 Squat Ladder with a partner.

Partners begin holding in a quads parallel position at the bottom of the squat movement. Person 1: does 1 rep while P2 holds. P2 does 1 rep while P1 holds.

P1 does 2 reps while P2 holds, P2 does 2 reps while P1 holds.

Continue until you complete the ladder to 10. No cheating.

Finish with:

60secs mtn climbers/30 sec plank/30 ses rest

x 3 – 4 rounds

Cool down.

 

 

WO#3

warm up 10:00

2 x 8 shoulder openers

2 x 5 cuban press

3 x 5 wall squat

Then:

Work up to a weight that is heavy for a step up. Ideally use a bar bell on your back or two Kbs held in front rack position.

Then:

5 x 5 Step up in 16 – 20” box depending on your height, box should be lower than your knee cap.

complete 5 step ups per leg with weight that makes the movement challenging, slow grinding movements.

In between sets compete 8x Pull up

Then:

10x KB Swing +

8x Push Press

5x Push Plank Row

x 5

Cool Down

All the movements can be found as videos in the Chicks archives.

If you need information for a specific climb or trip of any nature you can contact me at:

carolyn@rippleffectraining.com

Carolyn Parker

Founder Ripple Effect Training

Gym Jones, Fully Certified Instructor

AMGA Certified Rock Guide

 

Chicks Training: Long Alpine Days

Carolyn Parker on a long alpine day on the SW Buttress of Makalu. ©Brendan Cusick.

Carolyn Parker on a long alpine day on the SW Buttress of Makalu. ©Brendan Cusick.

Do you have your sights set on an alpine trip?

Would you like to go to Mt Baker, take a trip to the Alps or do something in South America?

Alpine climbing is a mix of rock climbing, ice climbing, and endurance—12hr days, 20hr days, multiple 12hr days AND it always means carrying a pack!

Most people don’t live with the mountains in their back yard. For many the mountains are not easily accessible.

So how do you train for alpine days? How do you build an alpine-fitness base with what you have at your disposal?

Before you go on a trip you should have a good understanding of how long the days will be. This is where your preparation begins.

Tracking progress and including rest is key to motivation

Keep a log or a journal. Track what you do and when. This way you can see your improvement in writing.

Training is never as glamorous as we would like it to be

Follow three hard weeks of training with a fourth week of fun and active recovery. This will keep your mind sharp and body ready for three more weeks of hard work.

Climb with Weight

Start with 10 – 15lbs in a pack. Try to stay on the wall for 10 – 12 min at a time. Switch off with a partner so that your rest is their climbing time. Complete 3 – 5 rounds depending on your fitness.

Down Climb

Often we have to down climb in the mountains. Practice down climbing in the gym, or at the crag. Then try down climbing with your pack. This can be incorporated into idea #1.

Climb in your approach shoes or boots

Start to get comfortable trusting your feet with more bulky, less sensitive shoes on.

Wear a pack on a stepmill, treadmill or stairs

If you don’t have good hiking trails close by and you can only get out periodically, take your pack to the gym and walk on a stepmill or a treadmill at an 8 – 15% incline with weight in your pack. Start with 8 – 10 # and increase over time. No! You don’t look weird. You look committed.

There are stairs in most buildings. Walk up and take the elevator down, repeat.

Add more weight to your pack.

If you walk back down, take into account that this is harder on the knees, as is any downhill. Prepare for downhill. Just don’t do lots of extra down.

Build Your Endurance Base

12hrs is a long day and your body will shut down if it doesn’t have some kind of preparation. However, training for 12 hrs doesn’t make sense in our busy lives.

The following assumes you already do 2 – 3 hour hikes:

Week 1

Saturday – 4 hrs hike with weight

Sunday – 2 hrs of recovery riding, swimming or jogging

Week 2

Saturday – 5 hrs hike with same pack

Sunday – 2 hrs of recovery riding, swimming or jogging

Week 3

Saturday – 6 hrs hike with pack,

Sunday – 2hrs of recovery riding, swimming or jogging

Week 4

Have fun. Don’t worry about training!

Week 5

Saturday – 7 hrs hike with pack

Sunday – 3 hrs of recovery riding, swimming or jogging

Week 6

Saturday – 8 hrs hike with pack,

Sunday – 3 hrs of recovery riding, swimming or jogging

Week 7

Decrease the time and increase the load in the pack.

Week 8

Active recovery. Fun week.

During the week

Try to get 2 – 3 60 – 90 min endurance sessions with a pack on step mill, treadmill, or stairs.

*Consider combining swimming, running and cycling in the same day. Getting used to logging long hours and learning how to fuel and hydrate are critical elements to success.

**Plan in some fun adventures that use your increasing fitness to keep yourself motivated.

 

Voila! You’re all set

The combination of the two days is nearly 12 hrs. Back to back days brings an athlete into their adventure with a healthy body and a motivated mind.

If you train for the gruelling nature of alpine climbing by flogging yourself with long days in an unpleasant environment you will burn out and get injured.

Prepare your body intelligently. Stay motivated and injury free.

Break up training. Make training fun and achievable.

Back-to-back days work and work well!

If you need information for a specific climb or trip of any nature, training support, or programming for climbing you can contact me at:

carolyn@rippleffectraining.com

Carolyn Parker

Founder Ripple Effect Training

Gym Jones, Fully Certified Instructor

AMGA Certified Rock Guide

Need Continuous Energy for Endurance?

Karen Bockel, co-owner Chicks Climbing and Skiing, refuelling with some apres ski Gu ©Kitty Calhoun

Karen Bockel, co-owner Chicks Climbing and Skiing, refuelling with some apres-ski Gu ©Kitty Calhoun

  • Have you ever felt the high, and then the crash, from a sugar rush?
  • Have you ever felt sluggish after lunch?
  • Have you ever felt nauseous because you were exerting yourself and could not digest the badly needed energy snack you had just eaten?

GU gels can help.

For 25 years, GU has been driven to answer three questions:

What to eat? When to eat? How much to eat?

  1. The gels (and their other products) are designed with the maximum amount of fructose and glucose – and in the optimal ratio – for digestion and energy.
  2. If you are exercising for 1- 2 hours, the focus should be on hydration and light energy. So you might eat a gel and drink 16 ounces of liquid after 45 minutes if the workout is over an hour and repeat every hour.

News Flash! Gu announced a new flavor on June 11—French Toast. The National Interscholastic Cycling Association, which aims to get more kids on bikes, helped create the flavor GU had a group of high schoolers come into their office to work with their R&D team to pick the flavor they liked best, and it was French Toast.

Stay tuned for information on GU hydration and BCAAs, your muscle insurance policy, in a future newsletter.

Hangboard Workouts

Hang 10 sec / Rest 5 sec, 4 times . . .

Hang 10 sec / Rest 5 sec, 4 times . . .

A KEY part of rock climbing is finger strength.

Fingerboards, also known as hangboards, are both inexpensive and a great way to develop finger strength.

Hangboards are particularly efficient if you are too busy to get to the climbing gym.

The first rule of training on a hangboard is to err on the side of caution. Build up to smaller and smaller holds, especially if you’re new to it or haven’t been rock climbing in a while.

You can place a fingerboard over most doorways, out in the garage, or some other convenient spot. This allows you to get a super productive workout, in a short period of time, all in your own home!

Get some recommendations on purchasing a fingerboard here:

https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/topics/climbing/best-hangboard

Three Great Fingerboard Workouts

 

FINGERBOARD WO #1

4x

30 sec push ups / 30 sec rest

Rest 2 min

Then:

5x

5 pull-ups / 60 sec rest

Rest 2 min

Then:

Choose 5 fingerboard grips that you can hang onto for 10 sec (e.g. jug, pinch, crimp, sloper, three finger pocket)

For each grip complete 4 rounds of:

10 sec hang / 5 sec rest

Between grip hang rounds, take 2 min to complete one of the following 4 core exercises:

1) 20 x sit-up

2) 60 sec v-sit

3) 60 sec plank (on feet)

4) 60 sec flutter kick

(Rotate through core exercises until each grip-hang round is done.)

Then:

4x

30 sec push ups / 30sec rest

FINGERBOARD WO #2

 4x

30 sec push ups / 30 sec plank

Rest 2 min

Then:

10 – 1 Pull-Up Ladder:

10 pull-ups / rest 30 sec, 9 pull-ups / rest 30 sec . . . continue down to 1 pull-up. (

Use assistance like a chair under your feet or a band if necessary.)

Rest 2 min

Then:

Choose 4 hangboard grips that you can hang onto for 8 seconds (e.g. jug, pinch, crimp open hold, three finger pocket).

For each grip, complete 3 rounds of:

8 sec hang / 5 sec rest.

Between grip hang rounds, take two min to complete one of the following exercises:

1) 20 x sit up

2) 60 sec v-seat

3) 60 sec flutter kick

(Rotate through core exercises until each grip hang round is done.)

FINGERBOARD WO #3

Pick 5 handboard holds (e.g. jugs, pinches, crimps, open, three finger pocket).

On each hold type do 3 rounds of:

10 sec hang during which time you complete a pull-up while hanging /

30 sec rest

Rest 3 min between hold pull-up groupings

Then:

8 x 20 sec work / 10 sec rest of the following movements with 1 – 2 min rest in between:

1) Sit Ups

2) Push Ups

3) Flutter kicks

 

Final Tips

If you’re new to Chicks Training, I encourage you to take a few minutes. Read the previous Chicks Training Posts. Training is incredibly beneficial and there’s a lot of great information there to get you started.

If you are looking for some motivation, consider that implementing new movements and concepts into a regular workout pattern in almost any fashion will create positive change.

And, if you’d like to discuss training for a specific climb or trip of any nature you can contact me at:

carolyn@rippleffectraining.com

Carolyn Parker

Founder Ripple Effect Training

Gym Jones Certified

AMGA Rock Guide

Uphill Athlete Coach

Advanced Rock Climbing Training Program

Carolyn Parker taking a hike on Wanderlust,  Kalymnos, Greece, ©Robbie Klimek

Carolyn Parker taking a hike on Wanderlust,  Kalymnos, Greece, ©Robbie Klimek

Advanced Rock Climbing Training Program

For more advanced climbers, read 8-Week Basic Rock Climbing Program Part 1 and Part 2 first.

If you finished the 8-Week Basic Rock Climbing Program, nice work!
Try the advanced program outlined below.

Advanced Rock Climbing Training Program

The Advanced Program builds on the Basic program with

1) back-to-back climbing days

2) and, bouldering.

 

Schedule:

Monday – Yoga or Active Recovery

Tuesday – Bouldering and Strength

Wednesday – Gym climbing routes for climbing endurance

Thursday – Aerobic work 90 min, conversational pace

Friday – Rest

Saturday – Climb

Sunday – Climb or 90 min Aerobic work, listen to your body this is a lot of volume. Do the beneficial aerobic work if overly tired.

 

Climb 2 – 4 days a week to the best of your ability.

 

Week 1 – 3 Hard weeks, push yourself!

Week 4 – Easy week – take three rest days and just have fun, don’t train with any structure or you’ll burn out or, worse, you’ll break.

Week 5 – 7 Hard weeks, push yourself again.

Week 8 – Easy week – take three rest days and just have fun, don’t train with any structure or you’ll burn out or worse break.

 

Monday – Yoga or Active Recovery—Self-explanatory

Tuesday – Climb

Warm up on easy routes if possible or easy boulder problems. This is a hard bouldering session for climbing power. Try problems you fall off of after a move or two. Try and do all the moves. Project the same problems for three weeks. In your session once warmed up complete:

3 x VO

2 x V1

2 x V2

1 x V3

Then, once your skin is done, head to the regular gym area and do a supplemental strength workout.

Following are two advanced strength training workouts to choose from:

#1

10:00 warm up light aerobic work

2 x 8 shoulder opener

2 x 5 cuban press

3 x 5 wall squat

and any mobility work you need to work on.

Then:

5 x

3 x Single arm body row

3 x KB Bosu Chest Press

10 x – Floor Wiper

Rest as necessary

Then:

2 x

HSPU Ladder (5 – 1)

Rest as necessary

 

#2

10:00 warm up light aerobic work

2 x 8 shoulder opener

2 x 5 cuban press

3 x 5 wall squat

and any mobility work you need to work on.

Then:

6 x

2 x Single arm offset pull up per arm

8 – 10 x Anchored leg lower add weight if appropriate, hold med ball between feet.

Rest as necessary

Then:

5 x

5 x Bent Over Row with lock off in three positions

10 x Archers (5 per arm)

10 x Hanging Windshield Wiper (5 per side) Legs straight, keep hips high

Wednesday – Climb

You may have to skip this workout at first. It depends on how sore you are from Tuesday and your capacity to recover from this amount of work. That’s ok. Listen to your body. If you have to skip it, then do active recovery, yoga, recovery endurance, etc.

Start with routes of difficulty. Warm up on two moderate pitches then, TR or lead with no hangs or very short hangs—if you fall, immediately get back on the wall.

Do three routes at, or close to, your limit back-to-back with no rest. I.e. 5.10, 5.11, 5.9. You should blow off the last route due to physical pump and mental fatigue. Climb routes you know, so you can be super efficient and finish them. Once you fall you are done, no hang dogging. Do 3 – 4 groups of three pitches. Vary difficulty so you are always falling on last the pitch or close to it.

As the weeks progress make the pitches more difficult: 5.10, 5.11, 5.11. Find a partner psyched on this as well, they belay you, then you belay them!

Then once your skin is done head to the regular gym for a supplemental strength workout.

Thursday – Aerobic work 90 min, conversational pace

Friday – Yep, rest, or active rest. Go on a walk or easy ride. The discipline to work hard at training takes a lot of mental and physical energy.

Give your body and brain a down day.

Saturday and Sunday – Go outside and climb both days. Or, get endurance greater than 90min on one of the days.

Saturday – Climb hard. You should feel good coming off a recovery day.

Sunday – Climb easy, take a nice long ski or ride, rest .

Repeat the week.

Move things around as life demands.

Get a friend to train with you—so much more fun.

Remember, have fun, train hard.

Carolyn Parker
Ripple Effect Training
www.rippleffectraining.com