Chicks its rock climbing season! I am so ready for tank tops and basking in the sun. Whether or not you are a weekend warrior who hits the rock gym during the week or someone who has a lifestyle that supports multiple days of climbing each week. We all need to strength train to improve our climbing. Our strength program should be designed to balance the body; improve imbalances created by the sports we love, make us stronger and injury proof.
Many athletes, climbers, runners, cyclists and the like believe that to get better we just need to do our sport more. Initially when beginning a sport that may feel like its true however more is not better, smarter is better, and cross training with strength helps fight off injury which often comes from imbalance and over use, and can help you breakthrough a performance plateau.
In previous newsletters, I’ve discussed basic and intermediate rock climbing strength programs. If this is you stick to the program, don’t stop! If you’ve done the Basic Training Program then try the Intermediate Training Program. Intermediates maybe it’s time step it up to the advanced. Now it’s time to get some training tips out there to keep you moving forward or to target the gals who need a more advanced level of training. So here we go…
Advanced Rock Climbing Training 5.11 or harder grades
What I have found to hold true for 90% of my climbers female or male; Once you climb at a certain level, and have been climbing for 3 – 5 years you have sport specific imbalances that are holding you back, as well as fairly typical strength deficiencies. In this training tip we will cover movements and next month put them into a training program to complement and improve your climbing.
Remember to warm up before all strength sessions and climbing sessions:
Shoulder openers, cuban press, cross over symmetry work Ys, Flys, Row, Pull down, should be done for each session. I covered these is previous training tips.
I’m going to give you a big list of movements, these will be used in your strength workouts. You’re first goal is to learn and/or review all the movements and practice them one to two times a week. Pick 4 -5 different movements to work on each week. Perform 3 – 5 sets of 4 – 6 reps on all movements. This is prep work so when you’re ready to progress to the more difficult workouts you aren’t so sore that you can’t move. Practice these movements on days you’re not climbing or after climbing.
**Note all of these should be done with focused effort on scapular stabilization. Try to retract or squeeze your shoulder blades together like you’re holding a pencil between them while performing all movements.
Here’s your list: (**covered in previous training tips).
- **Single arm body row
- **Floor Wiper
- **Anchored Med ball raise lower between rounds
- **Bent Over Row with lock off in three positions
- **Static holds
- **DB PP or KB HEAVY
- **KB Swing
- Weighted Sit Up
- Toes to Bar
- Hanging Windshield Wiper
- Single Arm Offset Pull Up (with lock off use band for assistance if necessary)
- KB Chest Press on Bosu
- AB Wheel
- Weighted Pull Up- this is a pull up with weight, hold a med ball between your feet, or wear your harness and hang a KB from your belay loop with a sling.
- L-seat Pull Up – Complete a pull up with your legs held at 90 degrees out from your body, so you make and L.