I’ll never forget the moment I first laid eyes on the Aurora Arktika, Captain’s Siggi’s beautiful, modern but historic merchant Dutch style sailboat, anchored in the harbor of Isafjordur. It’s two masts swayed gently above the wooden deck and the red and black painted hull. Two small hatch doors were open to the area under deck and up came Captain Siggi to greet us and load our skis and gear onboard.
We started by sailing across the waters to the Hornstandir Natural Reserve, a beautiful, remote mountain area where snow covered slopes lead directly to the fjords below. Yearning to explore, we set anchor in a small fjord, caught a ride in the zodiac to shore and began to skin up perfect spring snow into the mountains. We headed for a high pass that would connect to the basin on the far side, planning to meet the ship after Siggi would sail around the rugged coast to meet us. Clouds had formed at that moment, and Siggi called us on the radio to make sure we were up for the adventure. Of course we were, unable to resist the curiosity of wanting to see the other side of the mountains. We gained the pass after a couple hours of skinning uphill, climbing over a few rocks near the top, and were greeted with stunning scenery and a long, winding ski run down a large alpine basin, carving turns past waterfalls and cliff bands. Far below in the fjord, we could see the Aurora anchored. Siggi picked us up from shore and once back on the sailboat we dug into a big dinner of fresh fish and stew. Content and happy, we relaxed in the cozy dining area below deck. The Aurora felt so welcoming and comfortable, that it did not take long to call the boat our home.
For the next six days, we skied. We explored anything from big open slopes to enticing couloirs, climbed up to high peaks and passes, and anchored in a different fjord each night. Even during a couple days of mediocre weather, we were able to get out and enjoy good snow. We took sea kayaks and paddle boards out on the water to watch seals play, we hunted for mussels, and we sat on deck with a glass of wine enjoying the purple midnight sky of the long Nordic spring days. We felt like pioneers. Sailboat skiing in Iceland was an unforgettable experience.