Posts

Chicks Training Tip – Solid Shoulders

If you are new to the Chicks Training Tips take a few minutes to read the previous newsletters, there’s a lot of great information in there! It’s incredibly beneficial for all the Chicks to be introduced to new movements and concepts for training, implementing these in a regular workout in almost any fashion will create positive change. So re-read the first 15 installments to get a look at all the great movements, VIDEOS have been included.


Now on to the meat of the matter…Solid Shoulders!

Life, much less rock and ice climbing, requires us to injury proof our bodies. The number one over looked aspect of training: foundational movements that create strength and stability in joints. Our shoulders are one of the highest risk joints we have, especially for climbers. Let me explain, the shoulder joint allows us to move our arm in almost 360 degrees of movement in one plane, 180 degrees in another. The knee and the hip have less mobility and larger muscles to stabilize movement. Our shoulder relies on numerous tendon and ligament attachments and dozens of muscles to move and stabilize. A simple slip and fall can cause damage to the shoulder, unless we make it strong and stable to sustain unpredictable impacts.

So let’s make those shoulders bullet proof.  Once a week or before any training session go through these important movements and holds to stabilize the shoulders.

With bands, complete at least one set of ten repetitions as warm up and cool down of the following:

First two movements:

Y and 90/90
With band attached at knee height. Primary focus is shoulder blade stabilization, squeeze shoulder blades together and down before moving arms, maintain squeeze while reversing movements (harder than it seems)

Next three movements:
Rows, Flys, Pull Downs
With band attached at shoulder height. Primary focus is shoulder blade stabilization, squeeze shoulder blades together and down before moving arms, maintain squeeze while reversing movements (harder than it seems)



Then:
1 – 2x a week include:
10x Front Raise
10x Lateral Raise
10x Reverse Fly
with light DBs movements are done sequentially without rest until all three have been completed.
Three rounds.
See video in previous Training Tip 

Last but not least 1 – 2x a week complete a series of static holds:

Ring Support – goal 30 – 60 secs
Handstand or Over Head Hold (25 – 45#)  – goal 30 – 60 secs
FLR – Front Leaning Rest (Plank with hands on gymnastic rings, toes on floor or slightly elevated on a 12” box) 90-120 secs
See video in previous Training Tip 

If you add these in weekly, your shoulders will be stronger and more stable quickly, allowing you to climb harder and stay injury free.There are videos of all movements in previous Chicks Newsletters, and I’ve added videos of movements that are new in the above workouts, and as always if you are unsure how to perform any of these movements get professional instruction.

If you need information for a specific climb or trip of any nature you can contact me via e-mail.

Carolyn Parker

Training Tips for Chicks: The Process

If you are new to the Chicks Training Tips take a few minutes to read the previous newsletters, there’s a lot of great information in there!

It’s incredibly beneficial for all the Chicks to be introduced to new movements and concepts for training, implementing these in a regular workout in almost any fashion will create positive change. So re-read the first 10 installments to get a look at all the great movements, VIDEOS have been included:

This is a huge training resource for you all!

Now on to the meat of the matter.

This Newsletter’s training tip is called “The Process”

I’ve endeavored to give you all training program outlines for climbing fitness. Now I’d like to fill my roll as a coach to talk about the “process” of climbing as far as getting “better”.

So often we are our own worst enemy, putting too much pressure on ourselves or having unrealistic expectations about progress, where we should be and what it takes to break through a plateau in our climbing.

It’s a process.
I’d like to clear up a few things before we start, you can repeat this to yourself whenever you doubt yourself.
First: all climbers have been afraid.
Second: everyone worked hard to be where they are.
Third: everyone has had a bad day.
Fourth: everyone has cried about it at some point, or had a tantrum, or sulked, or gone into some crazed depression…I know just over the sport of climbing.

Embrace this and know it. If you see people climbing hard understand they worked to get there. If they can’t admit to you they’ve struggled, they are a douche bag. Ignore them.

Now let’s get on with the process.

All climbers begin by steadily improving and working through the grades, sport or trad. Just by going climbing and trying you will get better. At some point however you will hit your first plateau. 5.9, 5.10, 5.12 wherever it is and believe me there are many plateaus to be hit, you will hit yours. At this point the process requires a different approach.

Suddenly you need to “train” and you need to fail, and then try and try and try again to succeed. This is the process. If you want to gain the skill, strength, and ability to climb beyond your plateau.

Challenge yourself to try routes, or boulder problems that you think you can’t touch. So you can only link a few moves at a time. Perfect. Two things happen when you try. First you become stronger. Finger and contact strength (it’s like a heavy lift) in addition your body begins to “learn” new movement. Feel confident and comfortable to rehearse movements. Then begin linking moves. If you try a new route or boulder problem and in one week you manage to get one move further you’ve made progress. Try and fail try and fail try and fail…then try and Succeed! Once your body understands what it feels like, what it takes to climb the next grade harder the next route will be easier. Mentally and physically.

One last note. Once you break through the 5.10 barrier each letter grade represents a new level of difficulty. The difference between 10a and 10d is much greater than 5.8 to 5.9. Honor each grade, and progress accordingly. If you struggle to complete your first 10a and you want to climb 5.11 then you must embrace the process. Onsight or Redpoint,  complete the routes clean after working on them: Ten 5.10a’s, Seven 5.10b’s, Five 5.10c’s, Three 5.10d’s, then try 5.11a. Build a foundation of fitness, technique and strength to launch from. You can apply this process to all the grades.

Final Note:
Happy Climbing! Enjoy the Process!

As always: for more detailed information regarding training you can contact me at  www.rippleffectraining.com or e-mail me.

Carolyn Parker

Training Tips for Chicks: Have A Plan

If you are new to the Chicks Training Tips take a few minutes to read the previous newsletters, there’s a lot of great information in there!

Handstand Hold

Handstand Hold

Its incredibly beneficial for all the Chicks to be introduced to new movements and concepts for training, and initially implementing these in a regular workout in almost any fashion will create positive change. So re-read the first installments to get a look at all these great movements videos have been included:

  • Shoulder Openers – Shoulder flexibility and ROM
  • Modified Cuban Press – Rotator Cuff strengthening and posture correction, with scapular area strengthening, and overhead ROM.
  • Wall Squat, Goblet Squat, Push ups, Walking Push Ups, Ring Push Ups
  • Archers, Leg Lower and Raise, KTE, L seats, Knee Raise, Static holds: FLR, ring support, DB Push Press, Plate OH Hold, Handstand Hold, Bench dip / ring dip
  • Pull Up, Body Row, Bent Over Row, High Pull, Pull Over, Walking Lunge, OH Walking Lunge, BSSU, SLSLDL, Front Raise, Lateral Raise Standing, Reverse Fly, Y’s with Bands, Low Trap Flys with bands, Deadlift, Front Squat.
  • As well as a few sample workouts (WOs).

In this next installment I’ll look at training vs. “exercise”: HAVE A PLAN!

By in large most people that come to me to train have specific goals in mind. For some its a race, for some to climb at a particular difficulty grade, maybe its for health reasons to combat the effects of the aging process, maybe for injury prevention or to bridge the gap between PT and Sport. Whatever the case may be, everyone has a goal and it includes measurable improvement. For most of us, “measurable” improvement is key and this requires a plan. It is also what separates training from exercise.
Exercise is good for us, most health professionals will tell you, you need 30 min a day, at a minimum, of cardiovascular work and strength training twice a week if over the age of 40. And in general, for health maintenance and overall “fit”ness this is adequate and what I call “exercise”.
However, if you have a specific goal and you want to improve at something or change your current situation then your mindset needs to change to that of actual “Training”. Otherwise, you will become frustrated with the outcome…stagnation.
Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.” A. Einstein.
How does one begin to train,  I encourage you to find quality professional guidance. You can do your homework first though:
  1. Make a list of goals, there can be more than one. From as simple as eliminate back pain or do a pull up, to Ice Climb in Iceland with Chicks guides.
  2. Assess your weaknesses, if you know them. And your strengths. Most of us already train our strengths because it makes us feel good, what we need to do to improve is target weaknesses with a vengeance.
  3. Look at your weekly life schedule and carve out realistic amounts of time to train and stick to it. If your training time goals are unrealistically high and you fail to meet your personal expectation you will be frustrated and additionally overly tired, not getting the benefit from the training you are doing. Train smart not hard. Less is more. Quality over quantity.
  4. Find some friends to train with, make plans to meet, accountability and motivation can be key factors to success. Your friends might have the same goals in mind and this may also be an avenue to affording professional help, do it in a group setting.
Once you’ve done these things is time to execute a plan.
Angela Allan, a “Chick” extraordinaire I met at the Rifle CO Clinic this last fall contacted me with one of the above goals. “Improve her climbing for her Chicks Ice Climbing Trip in Iceland”.
She sent me the answers to the above list, we had eight weeks which is plenty of time for someone with a strong foundation and experience. I created a training program specific to her goal, to fit her time frame, and that utilized tools that she had at her disposal living in AK. And voila 8 weeks later I get a text…it read.
“Hey Hey, Woman! Just wanted to send you an update as I’m finishing up the last week of training before Iceland!! Dip ladder is hell on earth…and weirdly, I love it! I can do more pull ups than I’ve ever been able to! Overall, I think this is a gateway to a new level of climbing for me! I’m so stoked for what’s next…and very grateful for your help!
All the best! Ang”
Besides the fact that this just gives me a big warm fuzzy that she is crushing, its proof to a point that focused training pays off.
Your homework for this newsletter: Set a goal, establish answers to I – IV, set a date, make a plan, execute.
It’s going to be rock climbing season soon, look forward to basic foundation training for rock climbing in our next installment!

Carolyn Parker
Athlete, Trainer, Guide
Founder Ripple Effect Training

Training Tips for Chicks – #3 Core Movements

Written by: Carolyn Parker

This next installment is the first in a series specifically for climbing, although not limited to climbers! The specific strength required for climbing that can be gained in the gym environment can enhance any athlete’s performance.

Last post, we began to delve into how to gain strength without gaining mass, vital to all mountain athletes. The concept of more sets with fewer, more demanding reps was introduced. Today I’ll begin a four part series of movements that I have found particularly beneficial to climbers.

Series 1:  “Core” movements and static holds

If you are already training and in mid-climbing season you still have a few more months till rock season is over and winter training begins (or ice season!). When I train climbers and they ask about “core” work there are almost an infinite number of combinations of things that can be done. Climbing is a demanding sport requiring complex movements and stabilization. If an individual has adequate overall strength and can do basic movements, sit ups, plank, and has the grip strength to hang body weight we can begin more advanced movements. Climbing is a sport that requires stability in both the vertical and horizontal plane while griping the rock or an object.

Here are variations of two movements you can use to begin advancing your core strength for climbing. As far as sets and reps, if these movements are challenging try 5 x 5, if not make it harder then advance to doing more reps to build the strength endurance required for the sport.

Horizontal Plane

Leg Lower and Raise

In the video you can see the basic movement: begin with legs straight over hips, spine neutral. Lower legs while stabilizing torso/spine (do not allow lumbar spine to move) lower legs almost to the floor then raise back up till over the hips then press feet upward toward ceiling while pulling on the kettle ball (KB) on the floor. This movement allows you to stabilize the mass of the lower body while learning to incorporate the strength of the back, shoulders and arms while grasping the KB. To make this movement more difficult squeeze a medicine ball between your feet. Make sure your lumbar spine does not arch! a gentle natural neutral curve is all! If you feel strain in your low back the movement is too hard or being done in correctly.

Vertical Plane

Hanging Core Work: As climbers we must hold on the the surface we are climbing, then raise our legs and position our feet to generate the next movement. Hanging movements are vital to climbing core strength.

In the video, I demonstrate two repetitions of a series of possible movements from most difficult to least difficult:
KTE – knees to elbows: hold a 90-degree lock off and raise knees to elbows, if this is too hard try
L-seats – raise knees, straighten legs to an L-position, try to hold the L for a second or two before lowering and repeating.
Knee raise – raise knees all the way to armpits if possible.

Static Holds

Front Leaning Rest

Front Leaning Rest

The following movements the Front Leaning Rest and the Ring Support begin to build a foundation of deep shoulder strength and stability. As climbers (and athletes) our shoulders are a vital to performance and need to be strong. Stabilizing in an unstable environment is key to developing strength and ultimately protecting us from injury of our shoulders.

Front Leaning Rest (FLR): This is basically a plank posting with your hands on the rings. Begin by building the ability to hold this position for 60 secs. If you can do that then do multiple holds for 60secs with 60 secs rest between. If this is easy…try doing a push up every 10 secs while holding.

Ring Support

Ring Support

Ring Support:
This hold is much harder than the FLR. Grip the rings in your hands, hold hands at your sides and lift or support your weight off the the rings. If you cannot yet stabilize this hold place a toe on the ground and begin. Begin to build up time… 30 secs, then 45 secs, then 60secs. Eventually you’ll want to do sets of these hold with measured rest between. rest is a similar time to the length of hold.

Try adding these movements to your new strength training goals for overall fitness and mountain athlete performance. The second installment in the series will target pulling and pushing movements also specific to climbing though all athletes should try!

We are just scratching the surface of strength training. There are many, many elements to cover, frequency of workouts, what type of workout to do when, strength vs. power, what is power endurance. I will continue to cover these topics in the Chicks training newsletters & blog.  For more detailed information regarding programming of this nature you can contact me at www.rippleffectraining.com or via e-mail.

Signing off for now,

Training Tips for Chicks – #2 Stronger Not Bigger

Written by: Carolyn Parker

Here it is the awaited next installment, as promised I’ll add a few more basic movements and begin a discussion of the positive effects of strength conditioning and how to get stronger without getting bigger.

But first, let’s discuss the tools you will gain the most benefit from using during your strength training. Two types: #1 your own body #2 external objects that are unstable (i.e. not a machine that will stabilize and control the movement of the weight for you).

GSquatWe are all mountain athletes, climbers, skiers, runners, cyclists…. all of these sports require us to move our bodies over land, up cliffs, you name it…it’s moving the body. Therefore, to be more efficient we: a) want to increase our strength to weight ratio and b) gain fitness that applies to experiencing our sport in what can often be an unpredictable environment.

Let’s discuss a) strength to weight ratio. The first thing that pops into most peoples minds is: I need to loose weight. Well, not necessarily, but if you do then that would be the first step. However, the process of getting stronger will likely create that outcome. and b) external object control is a profound and genuine test of fitness. Control of an object while it is being swung or thrown, or pressed or pulled, creates a unique force on our body.  The heavier the mass that can be manipulated (properly), the stronger and more effective the athlete will be at managing their own weight or possibly the weight of a pack, an ice tool, climbing gear, a bicycle, in addition to their own body weight. So let’s talk strength!

First, I must stress that all strength training should be done after an athlete has a good solid foundation, is injury free, and be done under the supervision of a trusted professional if the athlete lacks the knowledge of the proper form for lifts and body weight movements.

So, Chicks: after you’ve done your wall squats, shoulder openers, cuban press (see Chicks Training Tip #1) try a few goblet squats and push ups for warm up.

The Goblet Squat: this is a squat done with a KB held at your chest. I prefer to cup the bell of the KB in my palms to take stress off my thumbs. There are a number of methods for holding the KB. The important aspect of the position of the weight is that it is above your center of gravity creating a greater challenge on the back/core/posterior chain when squatting. Your goal is to not allow the weight to round your shoulders or pull you forward, squat to quads parallel and try to mimic the alignment you learned during the wall squat. Do 3 sets of 6

Push ups: Yes the good ol’ push up. The number one exercise avoided by most women, because either they can’t do them or they feel they are not good at them. From this point forward, if that is your mind set I want you to discard those silly notions and begin to understand that you only have to make up your mind that you can do them, then start training properly and you will.  And, that applies to all strength and sport, find your weaknesses, face them and overcome them by practice and hard effort.

Lay on the floor, place your hands next to your chest, slightly wider than shoulder width apart. Elbows point back, activate your core, back, glutes, legs and get ready to push. Perform your push-ups on your knees, or lower on your toes and push on your knees if knees is too easy but toes is still too hard or on your toes, with perfect form and ROM no matter what. Be patient, do them properly and you will gain strength.  Do 2 sets of  5 (warm up).

Now to the meat of the matter: how does one gain strength without mass. Gaining muscle mass is called muscle hypertrophy. Simply stated, most gym routines that people are familiar with suggest things like working muscle groups and body areas, focusing on 3-4 sets of 10 – 12 reps. This old formula is from the days of Body Building and not Athletic Training. Body building is designed to do just that build and shape the body. This is not what you want, mountain athletes want to gain strength with as little mass gain as possible and lean down. Utilizing body weight movements and external object’s.

Let’s discuss just one facet of this goal. Strength. Once the athlete understands the lift, the movement, the skill to be performed and the athlete is properly warmed up. We want to focus on a total rep count for that movement of (12 – 25reps) this can be done in sets and reps as such: 5 x 5, 5 x 3, 8 x 3, 6 x 2. The goal is to find a body weight movement, and external object movement or lift that requires a high muscle output from the athlete where finishing this low number of reps causes near failure (but not failure) on the last rep or two. Failure is that of strength or form, do not let your form go!

Next time you are training try this: I’m going to pick a movement that is often a challenge for women (if this is not a challenge for you, try adding weight to your pull up to effect the same challenge). Instead of doing your pull ups as 3 x 10 using assistance (for example) try to do 2 or 3 without assistance or reduce the assistance so you can barely do 4 or 5. Then complete 6 x 3, or 5 x 5 with at least a minute of rest between sets. If you are fit and have a good work capacity you can do sit ups, step ups, something in between sets as long as your heart rate recovers (before your next set of pull ups) and you are not overly taxing the upper body.

You can use this approach for all strength and power based movements.

We are just scratching the surface of strength training. There are many many elements to cover, frequency of workouts, what type of workout to do when, strength vs. power, what is power endurance. I will begin to cover these topics in the Chicks training newsletters and for more detailed information regarding programming of this nature you can contact me at www.rippleffectraining.com or info@rippleffectraining.com.

Signing off for now,
Carolyn Parker
Athlete Representative For: